Everything you need from GWS to upgrade your Slow Stick to a lighter, durable fiberglass fuselage boom. Or start from scratch and build your new creation! Lots of extra parts included in this package including 1 piece Slow Stick Fiberglass Fuselage Boom, Fiberglass Wing Rods, Pushrods, and tail mounting hardware.
The GWS Slow Stick is a fun model right out of the box in stock configuration. Adding an adjustable thrust line motor stick allows you to trim in down and right thrust to suit. Imagine going from cruise to wide open throttle and the model does not automatically go into a loop! Makes the aircraft much smoother and more trim neutral whether flying around or doing wacked out 3 channel aerobatics. Comes in an easy build laser cut kit. All fasteners and washers included. Good SAE socket head fasteners. Simply build the kit, remove your motor mount from the GWS motor stick, slide our mount on, bolt to fuse, put your motor mount on the adjustable stick and run the bolt through. Now do some trial flights and adjust to taste. Allows for thrust lines from 0-8 degrees down and 0-3 degrees right. Useful for Millennium RC SSX and SS Trainer kits or for Sticks turned into Canards as it works just perfect in pusher configuration. Fantastic addition to any Slow Stick being used as teaching aids as the thrust line may be adjusted to demonstrate effects.
Trick parts for adding Ailerons to your slow stick. These horns are special and differ from the tail horns. Comes with servo mounting pads, stick these down with Foam Safe CA, GWS glue included with Slow Sticks or any other foam safe adhesive. Pad is made from 1/64th aircraft ply so it is flexible and will match contour of wing easily. Glue servo (CA or Goop) to pad. (servos glued directly to the foam can be torn off easily). Spacers are provided so you can adjust horn to fit 4 or 5mm thick wings. Enough parts to do both ailerons on one wing.
The aileron is cut out from the stock GWS molding on the back of the wing. Here is how I did it.
Instructions: 1.Press hobby pins through the color side at the corners of the aileron hinge line depression molded into the wing. Glue a balsa block to the side of your hobby knife so only about 1/8" of the blade sticks past the block. This block becomes a stop for the next step to stop you from cutting too deeply. Flip the wing over and put a steel straight edge against the pins (we are now working from the white or bottom side of the wing). Use your altered hobby knife to slice the foam from pin to pin in a straight line without piercing through the top surface or colored skin of the wing. 2. Line up a steel straight edge on the top surface of the wing and cut the cordwise lines (those going for and aft) at the ends of the aileron. Once cut, Move your rule over about 1/32" and take an extra sliver out. This way the edges of the aileron won't touch and bind as it moves back and forth.
3: Aileron is now free. Flex the aileron towards the colored side and the foam will crack up (from the bottom) to colored skin.
4: Hold the aileron so it's vertical or 90 to the top surface and use a sanding bar to sand the hinge line down flat so that both the wing and the aileron end up with a 45 degree bevel in the hinge line. BUT WAIT! When you sand, do so carefully, as you see the color (of the top surface skin) begining to peek through the foam, stop sanding. You don't want to cut this skin. The top skin becomes a living hinge. I added Blenderm tape to the bottom of my hinge line while it was flexed up to make sure I had a durable hinge.
Step 5 Warning! Your making each wing a mirror image of of the other, look carefully so both servos are placed opposite each other, pads are betweed same ribs and offset to similarly relative to the center of the wing.
5: Glue servo pad to wing. GWS foam glue or any other foam safe CA may be used. After the pads are cured, glue your servos to the servo pad. Cut the slot in the aileron so the holes in the horn are lined up over the hinge line you just cut in. Use the spacers (one long one aginst the foam) so the when the clip is installed the horn is snug. Remove, add glue and put back together. Make pushrod from .055 wire (same stuff used for slow stick pushrods) and your done.
The stock battery mount for the slow stick is a little finicky to use. We believe it was made originally for 350 NiCads. Our mount fixes several issues. First, it has plenty of surface area if you like to use mounting Velcro. It is slotted and includes Velcro tie straps. It will retain these tie straps when the battery is not in place so no worries about them getting lost. Second, there are multiple places to easily hook on rubber bands. Any way you like to mount your battery is accommodated well with this mount.
Our standard size mount will hold most any pack around 1350mah or less in capacity in the normal short profile. Any pack 3.5" long (88mm) or less fits nicely.
Mount stands off slightly from the fuse boom so it may be positioned to overlap our wing mounts, main gear mounts even the motor mount if you like a forward location better. We have used this mount to suspend the battery above the boom also. It could also be used for "side" mounting if you need to balance against a camera or other onboard device that is off center.
Finally it's easy to convert to a T tail. Complete with washer plates. Glue to your stab and horizontal or use 4-40 nylon bolt/nuts in the pre drilled holes. May also be used for mounting verticals to the ends of your stab. Works with any 5mm foam. If using with stock Slow Stick parts, trim the top of the vertical down until you have a flat spot long enough for this mount. Comes complete with washer plates to prevent bolt damage to surfaces.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering. One images shows part being used to mount a fin to the center of the wing on our Twin Tractor Canard model in the shop.
Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want reglue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
Instructions: (Applies to both 4mm and 5mm unit)
The Stab kit has only 3 working parts. A bottom and 2 sides. The other two parts are alignment jigs.
1. Gently press the two sides onto the bottom (the bottom is the thick part with the two holes in it, the part you see best in the photo above is a side.) You'll notice there are matching finger joints between the parts. Finger joints are notches that fit together tightly. Get the 3 parts roughly square and uniform forming a U channel.
2. The other two parts that look like retangles with a "U" cut out in them are alignment jigs. You press these over the ends, wiggle them on carefully, one from each end until each is about 1/2" or so in from the end. The jig holds the 2 sides in perfect alignment with the bottom. Wick some thin CA into the finger joints between the the bottom section and each of it's two sides. Be careful not to glue your alignment jigs to the Stab Mount.
3. Pull the alignment jigs off and discard.
4. Slip your vertical into the stab mount. If it's a little bit loose (the foam they use has some varience in thickness) just add a layer or two of masking tape to the stab unti it's thick enough to be lightly snug.
5. Place the stab and it's mount onto your boom and notice how the bolts that hold the horizontal stab on will thread into the base plate of the stab mount. Notice additionally that your rudder is higher so you can get more elevator throw without contacting the rudder if you wish. Also, you locate the stab a little further forward in the mount to get even more elevator travel opened up if you want.
6. After finding the right location to glue your stab into the mount, Use Foam Safe CA or better yet the included GWS slow dry foam safe tube of glue to glue the stab into the slot.
7. Once the glue is dry, remove the nuts from your stab bolts. Now hold the stab in place as vertical as possible as your turn the screws from beneath the horizontal stab. Once everything is snugged up, reconnect your pushrod linkage and you've got a rock solid stab that's not going to come off and plenty of extra travel for your elevator.
Slow Stick Canard made easy! This all-in-one unit will mount your horizontal stab and allow angle of attack adjustments to suit your special setups. Most canards should be set to between 3 and 5 degrees positive. Range of adjust ment is from 0 to 7 degrees positive. Elevator servo moves with the canard mounting surface so your elevator adjustment stays the same relative to your canard when you alter the angle of attack setting. Mount has built in nose gear block and nose gear steering servo mount. All holes are predrilled. Includes high quality socket head hardware needed to complete.
My personal Slow Stick Canard is a twin tractor. I have a 1000mm boom length and the CG is set at 1-1.25" in ffront of the main wing leading edge. I have never built one with a stock boom length (800mm) but I would start with the CG in the range of 0-.5" in front of the leading edge. The shorter the boom the further the CG comes back, the longer the further forward you would place it. I don't know where Bob Masterson's CG is set but I would thing it is similar to my 1000mm boom setup.
Maiden Flight Video of Bob Masterson's converted Canard Slow Stick. This model is full house with 10" extended boom length.
Ever want to try a Slow Stick ducted fan conversion? Here it is. Uses off the shelf GWS EDF 64mm fans brushed or converted to brushless if you like. Now, don't tell us that Eindeckers never had jet power plants, we recently obtained archived 13th generation photo copies that seemed to show plans for just such a craft. Who's to say if they ever completed it or not? We built our model with the EDF-64H GWS brushed fans and let me tell you, this model really performs. I first flew it in about 12mph winds and with the throttle stick a little below 1/2 I was hanging it in the wind about 20' over my head and it was still creeping higher! Throttle range is excellent, plenty of power to blast out of trouble and reasonable speed for a slow stick. Now, this is not intended to be a fast fan model but then those are available around every corner. This setup will climb with authority (45 degrees or better), has good flight time, is aerobatic and certainly will turn heads at the local flying field. Before they see it fly, they'll be saying "How can that possibly work?", after flying they'll be asking "Where can I get those parts! It's amazing!"
Each kit comes with 2 mounts and high quality fasteners.
Check drop downs for motor and ESC combo specials to go with this item.
Combo A-Brushed = 2 each EDF-64H Fans complete, GWS 600LI ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails. This set will provide good performance for a low cost twin fan system. Model should finish about 24oz, you'll have about 14oz static thrust combined, not a bad ratio for WW1 low and slow jet fly-by's!
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1500-2100 size pack is required. Deans or Anderson Power Poles are suggested between ESC(s) and battery. Solder to one input plug.
Here is a set of real carbon solid rods to stiffen up your slow stick wings. The factory rods, regardless if they are black or white are fiberglass. These are much stiffer holding your dihedral closer to your setting in flight. Great for models enduring a little toughness for camera work or big motor systems. This item is all 4 rods to do one wing, a pair of front and rear.
Slow Stick Biplane made easy! Lots of us have wanted to try this but few have taken time to make all the special parts required. Now you don't have to make anything. Let's be clear, you only "thought" you had a "Slow Stick", you'll really have a "Slow" stick after doing this conversion. If you like backing up on a breezy day, you'll be moon-walking with 2/3 the breeze once you've doubled the wing area. A Biplane conversion also looks much bigger. What an imposing presence your new Bipe will have among the lesser endowed Slow Sticks at the next Fly-In you attend.
Like our mono-wing mounts above, you must choose the wing perches you want to match your desired wing dihedral. Our shop model uses 24 degree perches (as shown in the photo) and to me it feels just perfect. More dihedral gets you a more "active" roll function when you put in a rudder command. Conversion kit work just fine with stock dihedral (12 degrees) if you like but expect roll control to be soft. Choose the perch set that you think best matches the personality your going for in your new biplane.
Correct CG for this wing mount set is 5 3/8" back from leading edge of top wing. Note one strut set has an "F" etched in and this is the "Front" mount.
Many ideas are open for experiment and consideration. For instance many biplanes use a shorter bottom wing and at times the dihedral angle may differ slightly from top to bottom. Release your imagination and be creative.
The wing struts are an option listed on this page. Not required but aid in stiffening up your wing assembly and add a dash of "looks right" to your dog-fighter.
Wing riser spreaders (look like a letter H) are included with all the perch sets and are needed to complete the wing risers for all the mono-wing mounts. These parts are extra and discarded when you build the bipe setup.
There are no official instructions or diagrams. It only fits together one way. If the part fits, it goes there. Squeeze it all together fully, wick in thin CA from outside of square tube hole. The Y shaped perch sets (surface you mount the wing too) comes with little spreader pieces, looks like a fat letter I. These parts are for other wing mounts and discarded when building the Bipe setup. The front mount is the one that would mount the leading edges highest.
There are no other instructions than what is stated above, as it's way too simple for any more really. Read the above listing, it will give other info such as CG. Enjoy!
Photos of examples of Wing Mount Risers kit and Perch Dihedrals kit (sizes vary) for your reference.
NEW!! Slow Stick X - X-Trainer Repair Kits (WOOD ONLY) You've asked for it and here it is! Choose from either the wing repair kit or the tail repair kit. Includes laser-cut balsa and ply to build either SSX or X-Trainer Wing, OR SSX / X-Trainer tail section. These repair kits are of the new design. Hardware and instructions which are included in "Short Kit" are not included in this repair kit. This item is the Tail Kit Only.
The stock battery mount for the slow stick is a little finicky to use. We believe it was made originally for 350 NiCads. Our mount fixes several issues. First, it has plenty of surface area if you like to use mounting Velcro. It is slotted and includes Velcro tie straps. It will retain these tie straps when the battery is not in place so no worries about them getting lost. Second, there are multiple places to easily hook on rubber bands. Any way you like to mount your battery is accommodated well with this mount.
Our long length mount will hold most any pack around 2500 or less in capacity in the normal long or short profile. Any pack 4.5" long (114mm) or less fits nicely.
Mount stands off slightly from the fuse boom so it may be positioned to overlap our wing mounts, main gear mounts even the motor mount if you like a forward location better. We have used this mount to suspend the battery above the boom also. It could also be used for "side" mounting if you need to balance against a camera or other onboard device that is off center.
Millennium R/C's X-Gear upgrade for the GWS Slow Stick. Sturdy gear ends the "Squats" you get from the factory gear forever. Less tripping on landing also. All around a great improvement. Same gear included with the Millennium Slow Stick-X. Carbon struts are repairable and replacable, extra set listed below.
At last a easy way to mount your digital camera to your Slow Stick boom. Our Camera Mount is loaded with form & function. Platform is large enough to fit almost any hand held camera. 4.2" long, 3.95" wide. It is slotted for Velcro One-Wrap and has 5 rubber band pegs on each end. Plenty of room for adhesive backed Velcro also. Mount allows adjustment axially around the stick in over a 90 degree arc. By repositioning the mount on the different facets of the boom any position around its 360 degrees may be set.
Another nice feature is the camera platform does not have to be glued to the supports. If used in this way, rubber bands are required (you'll probably use some to secure most any camera anyway) to lock the mount plate in its supports. This way you can remove the camera without undoing it from the mount platform plate. You may want to remove the camera to lighten your ship up for play or maybe you wish to change to an alternate camera for a special shot. Extra mounting plates are available for this purpose.
Want to get the sunset shot of the city (or mountains) with the wingtip in photo? This mount will make it possible. Aerial Photography "high-eye-in-the-sky" fun can provide endless entertainment and has some potential for profit. The Slow Stick must be the most popular camera platform ever. Easily carries the extra weight of a camera and is great for limited access takeoff and landing areas.
Note, you have to devise your own mechanical or electronic trigger to snap the photo. Velcro One-Wrap and top quality hardware included.
Configure your Slow Stick any way that suits you. Tricycle gear setups may prove desirable to provide the best protection for your camera. Parts to accomplish this are available in this category.
Schools and Universities: Science & Engineering classes interested in hands-on projects can consider a class project to obtain a student produced aerial photo as a combined lesson in engineering and project management. The school, local public works projects or even locally topical subject could be considered as the "Mission". Perhaps an infrared camera is available that could be used to photograph a neighborhood or school facilities on a cold winter day. The ensuing analysis of heat losses present endless opportunities for ongoing student projects and direction. The mission could be to study water runoff and retention during the high precipitation season. The number of fresh, new and exiting project ideas is without end. Combining science/engineering and construction of a UAV project with a real tangible result is certain to keep your students interested and engaged. An enlarged photo to display or publish your success can serve well to motivate the next group of students. Let us know if we can assist your curriculum in any way.
Aluminum tubes required to build a straight wing, no dihedral Slow Stick Wing set up. Easily Bent to your chosen Dihedral. Note the pre-bent GWS 12-degree tubes are discontinued. Good precision fit to factory 3mm spars and a little longer than factory part at 3" to reduce spar wobble inside of tube.
Building a custom Slow Stick from scratch? Wish to eliminate the weight of the factory joiner and it's fasteners? Want an even stronger Slow Stick? Here is your boom. 800mm long. 10x10mm. Exact same fit as GWS tube so all your factory parts and Radical RC upgrades will fit perfectly. I strongly prefer building our custom Slow Sticks from parts starting with 1 piece booms. The GWS 2 piece boom works perfect but I like the simpler lower parts count of one solid tube and you will also.
International buyers: (Outside USA) These booms exceed the allowable length for First class shipments. Your minimum shipping fee will be at least $20 because they must go International Priority Mail due to length. In a recent example a customer from Canada ordered 1.7lbs of goods. The First Class cost was $7, however because the boom length forces Priority Mail the cost becomes $21. The same example to UK the price goes from $15-$30.
Finally it's easy to convert to a T tail. Complete with washer plates. Glue to your stab and horizontal or use 4-40 nylon bolt/nuts in the pre drilled holes. May also be used for mounting verticals to the ends of your stab. Works with any 4mm foam. If using with stock Slow Stick parts, trim the top of the vertical down until you have a flat spot long enough for this mount. Comes complete with washer plates to prevent bolt damage to surfaces.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering. One photo shows used as base for vertical fin which we mounted to center of wing for our twin tractor canard model in the shop.
Wrong color rubber bands stick out sorely on Slow Stick wings. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick.
Same great performance as our twin EDF-64 mounts but all in one boom mounted unit "Wart Hog" Style. Photo shown teasingly on my very own Hog Stick to tickle your imagination. Fans slip into mounting hoops with slight press fit. Apply section of scotch tape on fan housing between hoops so housing cannot slip past hoop. Simple and effective. Down thrust is fully adjustable with this mount.
Each kit comes with high quality fasteners.
Check drop downs for motor and ESC combo specials to go with this item.
Combo A-Brushed = 2 each EDF-64H Fans complete, GWS 600LI ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails. This set will provide good performance for a low cost twin fan system. Model should finish about 24oz, about 14oz static thrust combined, not a bad ratio for low and slow tank pounding fly-by's!
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1500-2100 size pack is required. Deans or Anderson Power Poles are suggested between ESC(s) and battery. Solder to one input plug.
At last, an easy and low cost high performance Slow Stick Twin. Gone are the days of strapping a heavy boom to the bottom of the wing with the resulting up thrust and poor handling. You can have a twin and have it fly correctly! With the Radical RC twin conversion kit you can make any Slow Stick into a twin. You can even make it into a 4 engine WWI Faux Bomber if you wish (with 2 kits). Our kit does not alter your wing in any way, attaches with simple rubber bands so you can always alter or return to a prior configuration if you like. Optionally; cut the tail off this mount and glue them into your wing for a permanent band free installation if desired.
Each kit comes with 2 mounts and high quality socket head fasteners.
For those wanting to configure a forward looking still or movie camera setup without prop interference, you've just gained an excellent option.
Check drop downs for motor and ESC combo specials to go with this item.
Combo A-Brushed = 2 each 370-B gearbox's and motors, GWS 480 ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails & 1 set of GWS 8-4 x3 Blade Counter Rotating props. This set will provide excellent performance with straight up climb yet speed controlled just right for the Slow Stick. Wide open throttle time should be limited to 30 seconds, current will be about 10 amps per motor at WOT, max continuous is 8 amps. Who would have ever thought you could setup a high performance twin so inexpensively! Don't assume brushed setups can't be high perfromance, this system will really rock! The Price is OUTSTANDING!!
COMBO-B-Brushless = 2 each GWS 002 Outrunner, 2 GWS 28mm outrunner mounts, 2 Brushless ESC's, 2 sets 3.5mm bullets & 1 set of GWS 8-4 x3 Blade Counter Rotating props. Although bullet-like connectors come with the GWS motor, anybody with an ounce of sense changes them to real gold bullets. This setup performs nearly identical to the brushed above for a few amps lower draw.
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1000-2100 size pack is required. For Brushed setup, be sure to use Deans or Anderson Power Poles between ESC and battery. For brushless twin with single pack, solder both ESC's to one input plug.
The stock factory tail wheel setup on a slow stick is weak. Use this light weight mounting block to build a steerable tail wheel mount. Bend your wire gear out of .055 music wire (Part # KS503) and your all set. Notice in the photo how simply we connected ours to the rudder pushrod. What? No glow line in the field box? We've got that material also. Combine with a .063 (1/16") wheel collar (Part # DUB137)to lock the wire in place (works like our nose gear retainer) and your all set.
Notice the bending pattern (non critical) that we are setting it up so the elevator is 1.5-2" off the ground. The idea is to leave a little range for shock absorbsion so you don't strip a servo gear if you smack the tail. It's not only about having stearing. ;-)
Want to bolt on a perbent aluminum or fiberglass main gear? Here is the attachement for that purpose. A customer in our shop actually uses a monster overpowered Slow Stick as a tug for 3 meter sail planes. YIKES! His need for an ultra rugged gear attachment inspired this upgrade part. Rugged with plenty of surface area to drill to match your gear. Thread directly into the tough aircraft ply or use blind nuts. Provide your own fasteners or get them from our hardware section. SKU Number: RRCSSBOMGM
Tired of your Slow Stick tail bending, flapping in the wind at your higher than normal speed? Wishing for more rigid control? Here is your ultimate tail upgrade!! This tail will not flutter and is many times more rugged than the stock tail. If your worried about tail loads lifting heavy weights, flying fast or just plain love the idea of Slow Sticks but hate foam, welcome to heaven.
A fully self jigging stick built tail. You can press this together and shake it up in the air hard as you like, nothing is falling apart. I'm tempted to cover one without glue for experimental (show off ;-) purposes. However, I do recommend you glue it together. Simply piece the jigsaw together, hold to flat surface and wick thin CA into all the joints, bevel the elevator and rudder 45 degrees for tape hinges (or 90 degree points for CA hinges), round out the edges, surface sand, cover, mount, hook up control rods and fly.
Kit comes as complete package with our custom upgrade horn set and vertical stab mount system. ($6 upgrades value) and instructional drawing. Parts are exact stock shape (except no hard to cover scallops) and hinge lines. Laser cut from 3/16 balsa right here in the good ol' USA. Mounting holes and control horn holes are all pre-made. Your tail will go on straight and true. Additionally, the stab mount has provisions for moving the stab forward from stock location in order to give you more elevator throw if your building an aerobatic monster. Fully compatible with Stevens Aero or Millennium upgrade kits.
Don't forget to get some transparent covering for this kit, she is a real beauty when complete.
Tricycle gear made easy for your GWS Slow Stick. After seeing a friend's setup which was overly flexible needing constant adjustment, I designed this handy nose gear block for him. The GWS landing gear wire is 1 size too small. Our Nose Gear Block is made to take 3/32 or .094 wire (Part # KS506). This kit is the nose gear block only, no wire or other hardware included. Just squeeze together and wick in thin CA. You're done. It's made so a single Dubro 3/32 wheel collar (Part # DUB138) retains the wire in the block. Remove the set screw and replace with a long 4-40 bolt. Notice how we did this using a short section of glow tubing as a friction lock for the steering pushrod. Unit fits the Slow Stick fuse nicely, use a dab of Goop adhesive to lock in location on stick. Maybe you can find some other uses?
Our heavy duty Slow Stick mounting tab. Made from 2.5mm Aircraft Ply. Rugged, can be used to mount anything a stick can carry. Big enough to hold Dubro's 1/2A nose gear set if you like. Each kit is one tab, super quick to build and nice fit on your fuse boom. SKU Number: RRCSSMTHD
Tired fussing with the tiny rubber band pegs on the stock GWS mount? Wishing you had more or less dihedral? Want to raise the wing up and make a true high wing out of it? Maybe you need to raise the wing and make room for your camera? How about a Low Wing Slow Stick? You've found the parts!
Generally, as you add dihedral and/or raise the wing up you get more yaw induced roll. This is to say your rudder will be more effective. The stock dihedral is 12 degrees. Maybe you're looking for a flatter wing layout to help make ailerons more effective? Also, if you have ailerons, you wish for the yaw to be more pure yaw and less roll. All these parts are here to aid in your experiments.
Incidentally, you'll have to bend your wing tubes for these higher dihedrals. This isn't too difficult if you have reasonable hand strength, insert carbon rods to aid and pull around a corner like the side corner of a pine 2x4.
Select Wing Mount Riser Lift first: -1 is the low wing set moving wing below the stick; 0 is near or like stock; actually my 0 starts just a fraction higher than factory mount; 1"; 2"; and 3" (refers to "inches" higher than the my 0 mount).
Next, select the Perch Dihedral...Note, 24 degrees recommended for low wing risers: 0 degrees (flat); 5 (less than stock); 12 (stock); 16; 20; 24; or 55 for a whacked out 3 channel rolling monster.
Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want re-glue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
Tan rubber bands stick out sorely on a red Slow Stick wing. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick.
This bushing set allows you to build the hard points for mounting simple shaft type struts into your Slow Stick Biplane conversion wing panels. Made from 1/64" thick aircraft ply. Rods are not included. You can use carbon, fiberglass, aluminum or brass tubing as we did. I think lightly stained 1/8" wood dowel would look very trick as well; anything about 1/8" diameter. I choose the more antique look of the brass on my biplane. I wonder if my more period correct SS Biplane would qualify for Top Gun now?
Installing these hard points still allows you to use the wing panels on other monoplanes. The strut shafts are passed through the hard point with a section of glow fuel line pressed on the shaft and slid up against the hard point on both top and bottom.
Locate where you like, we put ours on the high point of the airfoil (about 2 3/4" back from leading edge) and in the middle of the second section of sagging cloth (what the wing shape simulates) as counted in from the wing tip. Mark these spots carefully, glue the teardrop shaped piece on top of each wing panel. Now, mount your wings on your airframe. We cut our rods to 10 1/2" as this seems to leave the right amount sticking through. By hand carefully cut or drill your 1/8" pass through hole for the rod. Now, slip two 1/4" long sections of fuel line about 1.5" onto each end of a strut shaft. Place a 1/4" ply washer on each shaft end followed by the oval washer. Now install the rod between the wing panels. Slide the oval washer up to the bottom of each wing (orient it span-wise) and glue in place. When this has set, glue the 1/4" washer in place over the oval washer. Glue in place the 1/4" washer on the top surface (on the teardrop). The rods are now held in place with two more sections of fuel line on the tip. Using the rods as a jig to align the strut bushings (hard-points) is a real help. As you can see the rods go through the wing at an angle because of dihedral.
This special part allows you to glue in place a stop. Great for setups you want to be able to dismantle quickly. We made this part for a Slow Stick in the shop that the owner setup to take down and fit back in the box after a flying session. He can glue use these stops to set the location of one of his wing mounts.
Another interesting use is as a spacer to set the distance between accessories. Also useful as a slip on bushing to glue your special projects to. Laser cut from 3/16 aircraft grade plywood. Rugged enough for most any use. Each package contains 4 stops.
Wrong color rubber bands stick out sorely on Slow Stick wings. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick.
Mounts two servos easily. Tired of the GWS mount splitting and pulling the grommets out of your servos every time you stop abruptly (crash)? A slow and tedious repair when you should be flying. Our mount is tied together to prevent this problem. Also allows mounting of servo set low or high relative to the boom.
Although you can use this mount to put the servos anywhere along the boom, we've found a great enhancement putting the servos right back at the tail and using the stock music wire for short pushrod wires. You'll get rid of pushrod wire weight but the real advantage is your eliminate tons of pushrod flex, your controls will tighten up and you'll find she handles a little more solid in a breeze.
Kit allows use of different size servos. I like 6 gram servos like Pico's and HS-55's on my sticks. You might think moving the servos back would cause your stick to become tail heavy but remember your eliminating pushrod weight and what your moving back wasn't up front, it was already somewhat to the rear already. We find it works out just fine and the model is still easily balanced.
.400 wide by 8 5/8" long section of double sided tape. Used to mount Slow Stick vertical stab to side of boom. Many other uses possible. Genuine factory replacement part.
Use to offset a second boom from your main boom. Imgaine a Schiender cup racer but rather than a float centered under the fuse, we're adding a second boom. Original intention is to locate a second boom below your main boom to hold landing gear, battery and camera mount for FPV experimenters. In this way (with other parts available separately) Can be used to configure Slow Stick for single tractor motor with camera position in front of prop if you like.
Other uses are possible, perhaps you want to put a boom up above your wing to hold motor or camera above prop. Use your imagination with this special kit.
On model in photo parts are colored black with permanent marker. Made from laser cut 3/32 Aircraft Plywood. This kit offsets second boom with 4 3/8" gap.
Get rock solid control of your surfaces with these horns. Made to fit the precut Slow Stick holes exactly. No more wobbly bendy horns slopping up your flying performance. Ever wonder how much the in flight wind loads move them around? I say it does a lot and this is mostly because of the sloppy stock horns. Pick up a few MPH of wind and you can still fly with this mod. Also, she'll fly smoother when you actually get 100% of the throw you command. Solid control, that's where it's at!
Horn set is two complete horns, glue into the foam tail parts with foam safe CA. The horn is made from 3 parts providing lots of support on the surface of the horn. There is no substitute for straight stiff control rods, make sure your control rod setup is right to get the very best from these horns.
Mounts one servo easily. Tired of the GWS mount splitting and pulling the grommets out of your servos every time you stop abruptly (crash)? A slow and tedious repair when you should be flying. Our mount is tied together to prevent this problem. Also allows mounting of servo set low or high relative to the boom. Great way to mount your single servo for nose gear, camera or drop box actuation. Maybe you want to move one servo back to the tail and eliminate some pushrod slop? Whatever the case, our mount gets the job done cleanly.
Tip: This shot shows how to use a section of fuel line to connect a control rod. Slips easily in a bump and quick to adjust.
Need repair parts? Get 1/2 a wing mount set here. The riser is the vertical leg set (4 parts) that fix the distance from boom to wing mount surface. The Perch sets dihedral angle, is the mount surface, rubber band pegs, and the horizontal parts that fit between the risers to form a box to slip over the boom. SKU Number: RRCSSWMPARTS****
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, alien gravity variometers and etc.... Each package includes 4 tabs. SKU Number: RRCSSMTSTR8
We use this part when we want to put the axle directly over or under the boom (May be flipped up or down to get high or low axle). Used in our offset boom FPV prototype. Now available to you for whatever you'd like. Setup for 3/32 wire (Part # KS506), can be drilled larger. For larger spreads, larger wire is a must. In photo we drilled axle holes out to 1/8". We used 11" long axle wire (music wire) and 3" Maxx Products (MPIEPW300) wheels in the photo. Use wheel collar to lock axle in place in gear mount.
Although it is possible for the axle to turn in the mount, it is intended to be snug fit and the wheels to turn on the axle. Glued together with thin CA. The photo's unit was built and painted black with a permanent marker for that "I'm too poor to make this in real carbon" look. This item is the laser cut wood kit to make the Axle Gear Mounting block as shown. Axle (made from music wire KS506), wheel collars (Part # DUB138) and wheels are shown in photo in order to illustrate product use but are not included.
Use this part in conjunction with pusher mount, nose gear block, battery tray(s) to make a 3 wheel air car! I think this might be my next project. ;-)
The stock gear is a little too flexible for the models weight. When you add a larger pack, bigger motor or camera, now you're really in trouble. This mount can be used in a tail dragger or tricycle gear model. Wire size is 3/32 or .094 (Part # KS506). Just one size bigger makes all the difference in the world. Wire is locked into the gear mount with simple wire ties. Lock mount into position on your Fuse Boom anywhere you like with a dab of adhesive. Now you can do touch and goes, even bang the ground a little bit without failure. Kit comes wood (4 parts only) and wire ties. Plan for bending wire (purchase wire at your Local Hobby Shop) is included. Same well proven landing gear system used in our line of fine laser cut kits. Note, we love the Millennium R/C gear also, my personal models use both types, I can't choose which I like best. Suggest also ordering part # DUB138 wheel collars to hold on your wheels.
Replacement Motor Stick for our Adjustable Motor Mount Mount Kit. Single ended stick with mounting slots. Each package 2 sticks. SKU Number: RRCSSAMMRMS
Ever want to setup your bird as a pusher? Maybe you have a front mounted camera system and wish to remove the prop from your videos and photos. Mount is adjustable for down thrust over a nice range making an otherwise tedious trim adjustment easy. This mount was designed to be used as the wing mount also. If you wish to use only the motor mount without wing mount, that works well also. In a recent project (and I expect most people will) we used it as the wing mount system as well. It gives you 1" of wing rise which is popular already. Choose only your dihedral angle perches below. Good quality socket head fasteners are included.
Designed for use with props up to 10" using normal motor mounts. Mounts that put the shaft of the motor close to the stick like the 10mm Tower Pro Motor Mounts and the 20mm motor/stick mount setups tend to move the motor closer limiting the prop diameter to 9". If the entire motor body is above the motor stick a 10" prop will fit.
Special Note: It has been observed that this mount may be used as a forward facing (tractor) motor mount also. For under-boom mounted forward facing camera work, it is often desirable to raise the motor up to get the prop arc out of the photograph. This mount facing forward on the nose accomplishes just that while still allowing you to adjust for proper down thrust angle.
120 degree V-Tail Mounting Kit. Precision, laser cut quick build kit. She'll fly like an Angle but won't look like everybody else's hound after making this mod. The V tail is made from just one stock Horizontal stabilizer cut in 1/2. A slight V notch needs to be crafted in the elevator portion as shown in the photo. Comes with nice light weight nylon hardware. You'll need a radio with "Elevon" mixing (or open mixes available) to get both controls on the right stick (mode 2 for us Yankees). If your radio lacks this feature it is available on our site as a carry onboard electronic device.
Of course, you'll want a real tail wheel mount or go tricycle gear like I did. These parts go nicely with the V tail mount and are available in this category.
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, flux capacitors and etc.... Each package includes 4 tabs.
Same notes as short and long trays except the Uber Long tray holds anything up to 9.25". Provides extra mounting surface for other goodies if you like. Long enough in many cases to provide alternate battery mounting locations if you alter the configuration of your ship from flight to flight. Weight: 18.2g/0.64oz. SKU Number: RRCSSBTUL
Same adjustable thrust line motor mount with built in nose gear mounting block. 2 parts built into one with advantage of getting the nose gear further forward for more stability. Nose gear is bent to any length desired from 3/32 music wire which you provide. Wheel collars (DUB138 suggested) and wheel not included. I used a spare 1 1/4" long 4-40 socked head cap screw as a tiller arm replacing the setscrew that secures your bent gear wire into the pillow blocks. A section of fuel line to bind a push-rod to the tiller arm. All other fasteners included. See out standard nose gear block for another photo of this hardware setup.
TEMPORARILY OUT OF STOCK, LASER CUTTER PRODUCTION PENDING
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, ghost detectors and etc.... Each package includes 4 double mount tabs. Mount two accessories on your stick.
SKU Number: RRCSSMTSTR8DBL
NASA wants to go back to the moon. Radical RC's Wicked Wing beat them to it! Check out our original designs! Radical RC Verti-Go 125, Verti-Go 3D, E-Hornet, Mini Stick, Micro Stick, Micro Bipe, Micro Low Stick, Quick Wing 12mm, Quick Wing 20mm, Quick Wing Twin 20mm Double Trouble, Das Mini Low Stick, Das Mini Bipe, Mini Hunter, Mini Intern Trainer, Stick 600,
Print and complete this form for all Orbit Charger repair orders to be included with all repair requests.
Pictured to left is one of Garrett's competition ships, to right .... Dave, Here is a picture of my second plane. This is a 3W Extra 330 40%. The plane is flying great. Thanks so much for all your support in this hobby. I really like using your products. My friends as well are very happy with the equipment & fast-friendly service that is coming out of your company. Let's keep in touch. -Garrett Morrison
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 "Slow Stick Twin Prop Adjustable Motor Mount Kit")
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 "Slow Stick Bolt On Main Gear Mount Kit")
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 "Slow Stick Wing Mount Set: Riser Lift & Perch Dihedral")
 "Slow Stick Vertical Stabilizer Mount 5mm")
 "Red Slow Stick Rubber Bands 1/4 LB")
 "Slow Stick Bipe Wing Strut Bushings")
 "Screw Set For Slow Stick")
 "Slow Stick Boom Stop Set")
 "Blue Slow Stick Rubber Bands 1/4 LB")
 "Slow Stick Dual Servo Mounting Kit")
 "Double Sided Tape For Slow Stick Tail")
 "Slow Stick Offset Boom Mounts")
 "Slow Stick Control Horns Set")
 "Slow Stick Single Servo Mounting Kit")
 "Slow Stick Wing Mount Perch or Riser Only")
 "Slow Stick Straight Mounting Tabs Kit")
 "Slow Stick Axle Gear Mount")
 "Slow Stick Main Gear Mount Kit")
 "Slow Stick Adjustable Motor Mount Replacement Motor Sticks")
 "Slow Stick Pusher Motor and Wing Mount Set")
 "Slow Stick Vertical Stabilizer Mount 6mm")
 "Slow Stick V-Tail Mounting Kit")
 "Slow Stick Angle Mounting Tabs Kit")
 "Slow Stick Twin Prop Drive Replacement Motor Sticks")
 "Slow Stick Battery Tray Kit, Uber Long")
 "Slow Stick Adjustable Motor Mount With Nose Gear Kit")
 "Slow Stick Straight Double Mounting Tabs Kit")
