The GWS Slow Stick is a great platform for almost any electric RC activity. It's made with low cost in mind and it works fairly well right out of the box. However, did you ever wonder what it would be like to have one setup with all the nice hardware? On this page, you'll find those goodies. Improved motor mounting systems, control horns, landing gear choices and etc... Also, there are many parts here to make reconfiguring the kit into other types of models easy. Ever wonder how they fly V tail? Would tricycle gear be cool? Want a great camera mount? How about a twin, tri-motor, quad-motor, 5-motor or even multi ducted fans?
Do one up with all the nice parts one time and you'll never go back.
More complex upgrades come with an instruction sheet. The simpler stuff, all you really need is the web photo to know how to put them together. Some items are not complex enough for instructions but might include a few pointers in the description. Generally, I sqeeze the kits together first, then wick thin CA into any joints requiring adhesive. Nothing here requires any other type of adhesives. Obviously others may be used if you prefer as adhesive choice is non-critical. Construction is straight forward with most items having only 1-4 parts to make them up.
Same notes as short and long trays except the Uber Long tray holds anything up to 9.25". Provides extra mounting surface for other goodies if you like. Long enough in many cases to provide alternate battery mounting locations if you alter the configuration of your ship from flight to flight. Weight: 18.2g/0.64oz.
Building a custom Slow Stick from scratch? Wish to eliminate the weight of the factory joiner and it's fasteners? Want an even stronger Slow Stick? Here is your boom. 800mm long. 10x10mm. Exact same fit as GWS tube so all your factory parts and Radical RC upgrades will fit perfectly. I strongly prefer building our custom Slow Sticks from parts starting with 1 piece booms. The GWS 2 piece boom works perfect but I like the simpler lower parts count of one solid tube and you will also.
International buyers: (Outside USA) These booms exceed the allowable length for First class shipments. Your minimum shipping fee will be at least $20 because they must go International Priority Mail due to length. In a recent example a customer from Canada ordered 1.7lbs of goods. The First Class cost was $7, however because the boom length forces Priority Mail the cost becomes $21. The same example to UK the price goes from $15-$30.
Add on section, semi random length approximately 7.75" - 9.00" for constructing added length models. Extending the stick is nearly a must for your rear motor Canard or Pusher conversions. Anytime you need a little extra boom length for any reason it's simple to add on with this part and a boom joiner (sold separately).
Molded joiner sleeve. Use to attach boom stock end to end. Useful to replace broken or lost factory part or for making that extra long fuse version you've been planning. Use glue to lock joint or drill and bolt in traditional fashion. Fasteners not included, part is un-drilled. Discontinued by Millennium R/C, sorry! See Millennium R/C X-Fuse Parts Spru for this part linked here: http://www.radicalrc.com/item/Millennium-RC-X-Fuse-Plastic-Parts-Spru-107009
Slow Stick Wing Mount Set: Riser Lift & Perch Dihedral
Tired fussing with the tiny rubber band pegs on the stock GWS mount? Wishing you had more or less dihedral? Want to raise the wing up and make a true high wing out of it? Maybe you need to raise the wing and make room for your camera? How about a Low Wing Slow Stick? You've found the parts!
Generally, as you add dihedral and/or raise the wing up you get more yaw induced roll. This is to say your rudder will be more effective. The stock dihedral is 12 degrees. Maybe you're looking for a flatter wing layout to help make ailerons more effective? Also, if you have ailerons, you wish for the yaw to be more pure yaw and less roll. All these parts are here to aid in your experiments.
Incidentally, you'll have to bend your wing tubes for these higher dihedrals. This isn't too difficult if you have reasonable hand strength, insert carbon rods to aid and pull around a corner like the side corner of a pine 2x4.
Select Wing Mount Riser Lift first: -1 is the low wing set moving wing below the stick; 0 is near or like stock; actually my 0 starts just a fraction higher than factory mount; 1"; 2"; and 3" (refers to "inches" higher than the my 0 mount).
Next, select the Perch Dihedral...Note, 24 degrees recommended for low wing risers: 0 degrees (flat); 5 (less than stock); 12 (stock); 16; 20; 24; or 55 for a whacked out 3 channel rolling monster.
Need repair parts? Get 1/2 a wing mount set here. The riser is the vertical leg set (4 parts) that fix the distance from boom to wing mount surface. The Perch sets dihedral angle, is the mount surface, rubber band pegs, and the horizontal parts that fit between the risers to form a box to slip over the boom.
Slow Stick Biplane made easy! Lots of us have wanted to try this but few have taken time to make all the special parts required. Now you don't have to make anything. Let's be clear, you only "thought" you had a "Slow Stick", you'll really have a "Slow" stick after doing this conversion. If you like backing up on a breezy day, you'll be moon-walking with 2/3 the breeze once you've doubled the wing area. A Biplane conversion also looks much bigger. What an imposing presence your new Bipe will have among the lesser endowed Slow Sticks at the next Fly-In you attend.
Like our mono-wing mounts above, you must choose the wing perches you want to match your desired wing dihedral. Our shop model uses 24 degree perches (as shown in the photo) and to me it feels just perfect. More dihedral gets you a more "active" roll function when you put in a rudder command. Conversion kit work just fine with stock dihedral (12 degrees) if you like but expect roll control to be soft. Choose the perch set that you think best matches the personality your going for in your new biplane.
Correct CG for this wing mount set is 5 3/8" back from leading edge of top wing. Note one strut set has an "F" etched in and this is the "Front" mount.
Many ideas are open for experiment and consideration. For instance many biplanes use a shorter bottom wing and at times the dihedral angle may differ slightly from top to bottom. Release your imagination and be creative.
The wing struts are an option listed on this page. Not required but aid in stiffening up your wing assembly and add a dash of "looks right" to your dog-fighter.
Wing riser spreaders (look like a letter H) are included with all the perch sets and are needed to complete the wing risers for all the mono-wing mounts. These parts are extra and discarded when you build the bipe setup.
This bushing set allows you to build the hard points for mounting simple shaft type struts into your Slow Stick Biplane conversion wing panels. Made from 1/64" thick aircraft ply. Rods are not included. You can use carbon, fiberglass, aluminum or brass tubing as we did. I think lightly stained 1/8" wood dowel would look very trick as well; anything about 1/8" diameter. I choose the more antique look of the brass on my biplane. I wonder if my more period correct SS Biplane would qualify for Top Gun now?
Installing these hard points still allows you to use the wing panels on other monoplanes. The strut shafts are passed through the hard point with a section of glow fuel line pressed on the shaft and slid up against the hard point on both top and bottom.
Locate where you like, we put ours on the high point of the airfoil (about 2 3/4" back from leading edge) and in the middle of the second section of sagging cloth (what the wing shape simulates) as counted in from the wing tip. Mark these spots carefully, glue the teardrop shaped piece on top of each wing panel. Now, mount your wings on your airframe. We cut our rods to 10 1/2" as this seems to leave the right amount sticking through. By hand carefully cut or drill your 1/8" pass through hole for the rod. Now, slip two 1/4" long sections of fuel line about 1.5" onto each end of a strut shaft. Place a 1/4" ply washer on each shaft end followed by the oval washer. Now install the rod between the wing panels. Slide the oval washer up to the bottom of each wing (orient it span-wise) and glue in place. When this has set, glue the 1/4" washer in place over the oval washer. Glue in place the 1/4" washer on the top surface (on the teardrop). The rods are now held in place with two more sections of fuel line on the tip. Using the rods as a jig to align the strut bushings (hard-points) is a real help. As you can see the rods go through the wing at an angle because of dihedral.
Aluminum tubes required to build a straight wing, no dihedral Slow Stick Wing set up. Easily Bent to your chosen Dihedral. Note the pre-bent GWS 12-degree tubes are discontinued. Good precision fit to factory 3mm spars and a little longer than factory part at 3" to reduce spar wobble inside of tube.
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, alien gravity variometers and etc.... Each package includes 4 tabs.
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, flux capacitors and etc.... Each package includes 4 tabs.
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, ghost detectors and etc.... Each package includes 4 double mount tabs. Mount two accessories on your stick.
Our heavy duty Slow Stick mounting tab. Made from 2.5mm Aircraft Ply. Rugged, can be used to mount anything a stick can carry. Big enough to hold Dubro's 1/2A nose gear set if you like. Each kit is one tab, super quick to build and nice fit on your fuse boom.
This special part allows you to glue in place a stop. Great for setups you want to be able to dismantle quickly. We made this part for a Slow Stick in the shop that the owner setup to take down and fit back in the box after a flying session. He can glue use these stops to set the location of one of his wing mounts.
Another interesting use is as a spacer to set the distance between accessories. Also useful as a slip on bushing to glue your special projects to. Laser cut from 3/16 aircraft grade plywood. Rugged enough for most any use. Each package contains 4 stops.
Use to offset a second boom from your main boom. Imgaine a Schiender cup racer but rather than a float centered under the fuse, we're adding a second boom. Original intention is to locate a second boom below your main boom to hold landing gear, battery and camera mount for FPV experimenters. In this way (with other parts available separately) Can be used to configure Slow Stick for single tractor motor with camera position in front of prop if you like.
Other uses are possible, perhaps you want to put a boom up above your wing to hold motor or camera above prop. Use your imagination with this special kit.
On model in photo parts are colored black with permanent marker. Made from laser cut 3/32 Aircraft Plywood. This kit offsets second boom with 4 3/8" gap.
Get rock solid control of your surfaces with these horns. Made to fit the precut Slow Stick holes exactly. No more wobbly bendy horns slopping up your flying performance. Ever wonder how much the in flight wind loads move them around? I say it does a lot and this is mostly because of the sloppy stock horns. Pick up a few MPH of wind and you can still fly with this mod. Also, she'll fly smoother when you actually get 100% of the throw you command. Solid control, that's where it's at!
Horn set is two complete horns, glue into the foam tail parts with foam safe CA. The horn is made from 3 parts providing lots of support on the surface of the horn. There is no substitute for straight stiff control rods, make sure your control rod setup is right to get the very best from these horns.
Trick parts for adding Ailerons to your slow stick. These horns are special and differ from the tail horns. Comes with servo mounting pads, stick these down with Foam Safe CA, GWS glue included with Slow Sticks or any other foam safe adhesive. Pad is made from 1/64th aircraft ply so it is flexible and will match contour of wing easily. Glue servo (CA or Goop) to pad. (servos glued directly to the foam can be torn off easily). Spacers are provided so you can adjust horn to fit 4 or 5mm thick wings. Enough parts to do both ailerons on one wing.
The aileron is cut out from the stock GWS molding on the back of the wing. Here is how I did it.
Instructions: 1.Press hobby pins through the color side at the corners of the aileron hinge line depression molded into the wing. Glue a balsa block to the side of your hobby knife so only about 1/8" of the blade sticks past the block. This block becomes a stop for the next step to stop you from cutting too deeply. Flip the wing over and put a steel straight edge against the pins (we are now working from the white or bottom side of the wing). Use your altered hobby knife to slice the foam from pin to pin in a straight line without piercing through the top surface or colored skin of the wing. 2. Line up a steel straight edge on the top surface of the wing and cut the cordwise lines (those going for and aft) at the ends of the aileron. Once cut, Move your rule over about 1/32" and take an extra sliver out. This way the edges of the aileron won't touch and bind as it moves back and forth.
3: Aileron is now free. Flex the aileron towards the colored side and the foam will crack up (from the bottom) to colored skin.
4: Hold the aileron so it's vertical or 90 to the top surface and use a sanding bar to sand the hinge line down flat so that both the wing and the aileron end up with a 45 degree bevel in the hinge line. BUT WAIT! When you sand, do so carefully, as you see the color (of the top surface skin) begining to peek through the foam, stop sanding. You don't want to cut this skin. The top skin becomes a living hinge. I added Blenderm tape to the bottom of my hinge line while it was flexed up to make sure I had a durable hinge.
Step 5 Warning! Your making each wing a mirror image of of the other, look carefully so both servos are placed opposite each other, pads are betweed same ribs and offset to similarly relative to the center of the wing.
5: Glue servo pad to wing. GWS foam glue or any other foam safe CA may be used. After the pads are cured, glue your servos to the servo pad. Cut the slot in the aileron so the holes in the horn are lined up over the hinge line you just cut in. Use the spacers (one long one aginst the foam) so the when the clip is installed the horn is snug. Remove, add glue and put back together. Make pushrod from .055 wire (same stuff used for slow stick pushrods) and your done.
Linkage and horns required to drive rudders on a twin vertical fin tail. Handy parts to simplify setup on an otherwise complex tail configuration. Horn set includes rudder horn. Dry assemble all parts to be sure linkages are not going to interfer with each other. Look at photo.
120 degree V-Tail Mounting Kit. Precision, laser cut quick build kit. She'll fly like an Angle but won't look like everybody else's hound after making this mod. The V tail is made from just one stock Horizontal stabilizer cut in 1/2. A slight V notch needs to be crafted in the elevator portion as shown in the photo. Comes with nice light weight nylon hardware. You'll need a radio with "Elevon" mixing (or open mixes available) to get both controls on the right stick (mode 2 for us Yankees). If your radio lacks this feature it is available on our site as a carry onboard electronic device.
Of course, you'll want a real tail wheel mount or go tricycle gear like I did. These parts go nicely with the V tail mount and are available in this category.
Slow Stick Canard made easy! This all-in-one unit will mount your horizontal stab and allow angle of attack adjustments to suit your special setups. Most canards should be set to between 3 and 5 degrees positive. Range of adjust ment is from 0 to 7 degrees positive. Elevator servo moves with the canard mounting surface so your elevator adjustment stays the same relative to your canard when you alter the angle of attack setting. Mount has built in nose gear block and nose gear steering servo mount. All holes are predrilled. Includes high quality socket head hardware needed to complete.
My personal Slow Stick Canard is a twin tractor. I have a 1000mm boom length and the CG is set at 1-1.25" in ffront of the main wing leading edge. I have never built one with a stock boom length (800mm) but I would start with the CG in the range of 0-.5" in front of the leading edge. The shorter the boom the further the CG comes back, the longer the further forward you would place it. I don't know where Bob Masterson's CG is set but I would thing it is similar to my 1000mm boom setup.
Maiden Flight Video of Bob Masterson's converted Canard Slow Stick. This model is full house with 10" extended boom length.
Designed to help making twin vertical tails simpler. Perhaps your building a faux Warthog and need a simple way to mount your verticals to the ends of your squared off horizontal stabilizer. Here is the part set to make it easy. Other uses possible as well. Enough parts to make 2 L channel brackets. Square jigs make for a perfectly straight glue up every time! Drilled for 4-40 nylon bolts/nuts (not included).
Pair of Slow Stick wing sticks for FRONT of wing. 3 x 480mm solid. Stock at time of listing is black, may come white. Genuine factory part. Be sure to check out our Carbon rod upgrade set of wing supports PN# RRCSSCWRS in Slow Sticks & Hop Ups.
Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want reglue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
Instructions: (Applies to both 4mm and 5mm unit)
The Stab kit has only 3 working parts. A bottom and 2 sides. The other two parts are alignment jigs.
1. Gently press the two sides onto the bottom (the bottom is the thick part with the two holes in it, the part you see best in the photo above is a side.) You'll notice there are matching finger joints between the parts. Finger joints are notches that fit together tightly. Get the 3 parts roughly square and uniform forming a U channel.
2. The other two parts that look like retangles with a "U" cut out in them are alignment jigs. You press these over the ends, wiggle them on carefully, one from each end until each is about 1/2" or so in from the end. The jig holds the 2 sides in perfect alignment with the bottom. Wick some thin CA into the finger joints between the the bottom section and each of it's two sides. Be careful not to glue your alignment jigs to the Stab Mount.
3. Pull the alignment jigs off and discard.
4. Slip your vertical into the stab mount. If it's a little bit loose (the foam they use has some varience in thickness) just add a layer or two of masking tape to the stab unti it's thick enough to be lightly snug.
5. Place the stab and it's mount onto your boom and notice how the bolts that hold the horizontal stab on will thread into the base plate of the stab mount. Notice additionally that your rudder is higher so you can get more elevator throw without contacting the rudder if you wish. Also, you locate the stab a little further forward in the mount to get even more elevator travel opened up if you want.
6. After finding the right location to glue your stab into the mount, Use Foam Safe CA or better yet the included GWS slow dry foam safe tube of glue to glue the stab into the slot.
7. Once the glue is dry, remove the nuts from your stab bolts. Now hold the stab in place as vertical as possible as your turn the screws from beneath the horizontal stab. Once everything is snugged up, reconnect your pushrod linkage and you've got a rock solid stab that's not going to come off and plenty of extra travel for your elevator.
Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want re-glue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
SKU Number: RRCSSVSM5
NASA wants to go back to the moon. Radical RC's Wicked Wing beat them to it! Check out our original designs! Radical RC Verti-Go 125, Verti-Go 3D, E-Hornet, Mini Stick, Micro Stick, Micro Bipe, Micro Low Stick, Quick Wing 12mm, Quick Wing 20mm, Quick Wing Twin 20mm Double Trouble, Das Mini Low Stick, Das Mini Bipe, Mini Hunter, Mini Intern Trainer, Stick 600,
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Pictured to left is one of Garrett's competition ships, to right .... Dave, Here is a picture of my second plane. This is a 3W Extra 330 40%. The plane is flying great. Thanks so much for all your support in this hobby. I really like using your products. My friends as well are very happy with the equipment & fast-friendly service that is coming out of your company. Let's keep in touch. -Garrett Morrison