Being A Good Test Pilot: Part 2, Setup

Part 2 in an ongoing series about being a good test pilot. These articals are less about step by step hand holding instructions and more about how to think. We continue….

I always conduct an interview of sorts to fill in the blanks of things I may not be aware of such as level of experience, how long the project took, what the MFG says about CG location, suggested weight, what does it actually weigh and etc…. What your fishing for anything that could be a surprise. After the crash, you don’t want to hear the builder say “I thought 1/2″ behind reccomended CG was close enough?!?!”. Your looking for any shortcuts or oversights in the model. Did they use the reccommended servo’s or at least close? Is the battery large enough? How old is it? If the RX is new, has it been run a while? If the RX has come from another model, was it flying fine or did it’s last flight end in a crash? Has the TX been performing well? Are there any used or harvested components in the systems?

Always check the CG against common sense and what the builder says it should be. NEVER trust that it is right. Hold the model up in the air and check it yourself. Measure if you must. There is NO excuse for crashing over a missed CG check.

Control surface throws: I’ve run into many first time builders that started with a few foamy’s, have built their first sport or scale model and they put throws in the model that look like the 3d foamy they’ve most recently been flying. Not realizing the throws apropriate for a 25-30mph ship will be grossly excessive in a 70mph aircraft. Besides asking about suggested throws, apply your own stink test. If it doesn’t look right, it probably isn’t right. I like throws for a test flight just a tad on the high side of suggested first setups. However, you can take this way too far and end up with an over sensitive model. A model that is way out of trim and also way too sensitive is a real handful. Don’t walk into any such traps. Also, if a throw such as the elevator is too low and the model turns out to have an incidence or nose heavy problem, you might not be able to land at a reasonable speed and hold the nose up. Too little therefor can be just as bad a mistake. Try to be reasonable about what’s correct for “this” model. Generally, the faster it flys, the lower the throws should be. Something else to aid here is look for similar level of throws. If the ailerons are deflecting 30 degrees and the elevator only 15 degree’s perhaps the throws will be “out of balance”. Out of balance controls would be one control being sensitive and antoher being soft. This is more difficult to process in your brain when your under pressure trimming out a difficult model. Consider it before proceding.

To Be Continued……..

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Being A Good Test Pilot: Part 1, Mechanical Soundness

Testing a new model out is an important task regardless if it is yours or a friends. Many things go into a successful test flight. This will be the first in a series of articals on this subject. I consider it a high honor to be asked to test a new model and you should as well. Lets honor those requests by doing the job well. My writing will be mostly from the perspective of testing anothers model to simplify the language.

When a modeler brings you model to test fly, not only is he choosing you for your flying skills and experience, but also for your wisdom and judgment. Obvioulsy your trusted. Don’t shy away from telling the builder what they need to hear. If the model is not really ready to fly, say so. Your were choosen because you have the judgement and skills to make that deturmination as well as the skills to fly the model if it’s ready.

The first thing to do is size up the modeler and the model. If the modeler is known to you, is the complexity of this model in line with this persons experience and flying skills? For example, a pilot on his 3rd model presenting you with a multi engine, air-retract model could be reaching out a bit far. You’ll need to inspect every detail of this model very carefully as mechanical errors are more likely. Check every connection in the retract system. Look the servos over, are the appropriate for the model? Is the linkage up to snuff for the expected speed and performance? Is other hardware like wheels and landing gear mounting substantial enough to handle landing loads? Is the wiring done well? Are connectors properly safety tied where needed? Is wiring mounted or flopping around inside? Is the battery and RX secure? One of these loose in the model could lead to plugs opening up or severe CG changes. How is the antenna routed? Is it shadowed by wiring or other objects? Look at all the basics. If there is anything at all your not comfortable with, now is the time to discuss and address any problems.

To be continued…….

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$400 Flash Bulb Seen At SEFF 2012, Cool Video

Tanken By WildBill at SEFF 2012. Get a load of how big this event is and the 5 flight lines. A large portion of the field was locked out due to Mac leveling the grade of the runway and building the pond. Still plenty of room for 5 flight lines. Will there be 6 next year? Yikes! Oh yea, did I say carbon is conductive?

And the Aftermath Video includes a closer shot of the perps:

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Flying In A Tight Space

GWS Tiger Moth

I thought my Slow Stick would be ok, until I got it in the air, and then it looked like a Condor. I’m not the worlds best pilot, yet! But I’ve got maybe a half acre to fly in, if you don’t count the side yard, that is another 1/4 acre. ….I’m looking for something that I can fly in my yard, can you tell me the slow flying characteristics of the Millennium RC Micro SSX Balsa Build Kit?

Catch you later, D.V. Middleburg, Fl

D.V.,
A Slow Stick can fly in a small space also.

It’s easier to fly a Slow Stick in a small area if you incraese the dihedral. I like my wing mounting kit with 1″ rise and 16 degree dihedral best overall. In a tight spot, I might even go with the 20 or 24 degree dihedral. It will let you turn on a dime.   Find parts for this here.

Stock they don’t respond to quickly to rudder inputs. If you have the stock 12 degree setup and the plastic wing protector on which cuts your dihedral down to about 8 degrees, you have a real slow turning problem for sure. This means you have to think further ahead which is hard in the beginning.

If you are struggling with the Slow Stick in that area, the Millineum kits which are slightly faster are going to be a little more difficult. The airfoil on them is better for inverted flight and aerobatics but this is at the cost of lower lift. You have to be moving a slightly faster to stay in the air which will make the area feel a little tighter to you. It’s not about space or area, it’s about time. Time between turns and across the field. So before you build that nice balsa model (they are very nice kits) get that Slow Stick in flying trim and master it in the area you have. Then you’ll be ready to enjoy that nice Millineum kit. (Highly reccomened!)

What you really have is 1/2 acre to “land in”.  For a small space flight plan, I’m thinking about poping up above the tree line where I have more space to fool around then landing along the longest path available to me on the field when obsticals are considered. Perhaps you have a few too many tree’s. Nothing a good chainsaw won’t correct. 😉

GWS Tiger Moth Low & Slow

Also, consider the Pico Tiger Moth, it’s about 2/3 the size of the Slow Stick, undercambered. I should have these listed here: GWS-E-ARF. You can fly these in decent gymnasium. They will want little or no wind to fly.

Dave

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Motion Induced Blindness

Crazy Eyes
I received a forwarded email from my good friend Archie Philips in Harvest Alabama. It says in part:

“You may find this interesting, it explains how drivers pull in front of motorcycles and say ” I didn’t see him”. Lack of motion Induced Blindness (pilots and drivers too)

Good info and demo. Lack of motion Induced Blindness was presented as a flying issue, but one can also miss things (pedestrians, motorcycles, other cars) while driving, so, keep your heads and eyes moving. The below link is a great illustration of what was taught about scanning outside the cockpit when military pilots went through training they were told to scan the horizon for a short distance, stop momentarily, and repeat the process.

This was the most effective technique to locate other aircraft. It was emphasized repeatedly to not fix one’s gaze for more than a couple of seconds on any single object. The instructors, some of whom were combat veterans with years of experience, instructed pilots to continually “keep your eyes moving and head on a swivel” because this was the best way to survive, not only in combat, but from peacetime hazards (like a midair collision) as well.”

Actual author unknown

Here is the link to the visual demonstration of this effect:
Montion Induced Blindness”

As an RC pilot, I am wondering how many pilots who fly into trees, flagpoles, barns and other objects are suffering from the same effect. I’m not suggesting you should “swivel” your eyes away from your aircraft, just be aware of what can happen. Your gaze if fixed on your aircraft may cause the stationary things in your view (things near you) to disapear or become less aware to you with the background zipping around behind your aircraft. Just a thought. Dave, Radical RC

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2.4GHz: Is it all it’s cracked up to be?

Artical at Model Airplane News written by: Dave Horvath

This is an important artical explaining some of the reasons why 2.4ghz has issues. People can be counted on to always presume that newer is better. I was very late to start using 2.4ghz due to reliability issues. With about 1/3 of our hobby being replaced by newbies every year, it makes perfect sense that not many lifers are left that remember what standards of reliability we had acheived with 72mhz. Dave Horvaths artical is important reading to gain a broader understanding of how things work.

Dave Thacker

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