Choose an RC battery and charger that match your equipment, charge by the pack manufacturer’s instructions, and check receiver power under load before flying. These answers explain common NiMH, NiCd, and LiPo questions about charging, capacity testing, and battery care in radio-controlled models.
Based on Dave Thacker’s original customer Q&A, with technical guidance updated . Choose a question to expand its answer.
Charging NiMH and NiCd RC batteries
Will a small charger damage a larger RC battery pack?
A low charge current does not automatically damage a larger pack, but the charger must still be suitable for its chemistry and cell count. It may take longer than the charger’s timer allows to restore the charge used. A larger-capacity replacement is not necessarily full after the same charging session that filled the old pack.
That was a useful point in Dave’s original answer: increasing the size of the “tank” changes how much charge it can hold. It does not make an incompatible charger suitable. Check the pack’s permitted charging method, the charger’s actual output, and its stopping conditions. See FDK’s NiMH charging guidance and our new NiMH/NiCd pack charging guide.
What do C/10, mA, and mAh mean?
mA measures current; mAh measures charge capacity. A C/10 current is one-tenth of the battery’s rated capacity per hour. For a 1,000mAh pack, C/10 is 100mA and 1C is 1,000mA, or 1A.
These terms describe a rate; they do not authorize a charging setting. Use the current and termination method specified for your particular battery. In a series-connected pack, adding cells increases voltage without adding their mAh ratings together.
Must every NiMH or NiCd battery be charged at C/10?
No. C/10 is not a universal minimum, maximum, or maintenance-charge setting for all nickel batteries. Approved methods vary with the cell and application. The charging current must also suit the charger’s detection and termination system.
FDK offers several NiMH charging methods and warns that overcharge behavior and temperature rise depend on the battery type. Its charger guidance is a good reason to check the actual pack instructions instead of treating one rate as a rule for every RC battery.
How long should I charge a new receiver or transmitter pack?
Use the battery and charger instructions, not a universal overnight time. Required time depends on the starting state of charge, current, charging method, and termination. A charger’s fixed timer may end before a much larger replacement pack is full.
Dividing missing capacity by current gives an idealized time, before losses. For example, replacing 300mAh at 60mA takes at least five hours in ideal arithmetic. That is an explanation, not a charging prescription: the old blanket “capacity × 1.4” calculation cannot replace the correct termination method. Do not repeatedly restart a charger or extend a charge beyond its instructions to chase a number on the display.
Can I use my old NiCd charger for a NiMH RC pack?
Only if the charger or radio manufacturer approves that use. A matching plug or nominal voltage does not establish compatibility. NiMH and NiCd charge termination requirements can differ, and a transmitter’s charge socket may have its own current limits or protection circuitry.
Check chemistry, cell count, polarity, permitted current, and the transmitter’s charging instructions before connecting a replacement pack. If the charger has selectable chemistry, use the correct setting. The Energizer NiMH handbook describes NiMH charging behavior; your particular radio and pack manuals decide compatibility.
Can I leave a NiMH transmitter pack on a trickle charger?
Only when both the pack and charger instructions permit that maintenance method and duration. A slow charging rate is not automatically safe to apply indefinitely. Overcharging adds heat and can shorten battery life.
Follow the specified charge period or completion indication, and disconnect as directed. Do not assume an old charger’s “trickle” label makes it suitable for every modern replacement pack. FDK’s NiMH precautions warn against exceeding the prescribed charging period.
Checking battery capacity and receiver power
Why does my RC battery test below its rated capacity?
A low result can reflect the test conditions, incomplete charging, aging, or a faulty pack. Compare the discharge current, cutoff voltage, temperature, and preparation with the cell or pack manufacturer’s rating conditions. One arbitrary discharge test is not directly comparable to every printed capacity rating.
Dave’s original advice to check the test equipment as well as the battery is still useful. Inspect the leads and connections, confirm the tester’s settings, and repeat only the manufacturer-approved test if a result is questionable. The Energizer handbook shows how discharge conditions affect NiMH performance. Do not fly a suspect receiver pack while trying to explain away a poor result.
Does the mAh shown during charging prove the battery’s capacity?
No. Charge put into a battery is not the same as usable charge delivered by it. Charging includes losses, so an input-mAh figure alone cannot certify receiver-pack capacity.
Capacity testing measures charge delivered during a controlled discharge to the specified endpoint. At constant current, 500mA for two hours is 1,000mAh. Tester accuracy and cutoff settings matter. Modern instruments differ in how they measure and calculate current; it is not correct to assume that every charger simply multiplies a user-entered setting by elapsed time.
Do new NiMH or NiCd packs need cycling before I fly?
Follow the pack maker’s initial-charge and verification instructions. There is no universal rule that every NiMH pack needs five cycles or every NiCd pack needs four. Storage history and the particular cells can affect initial performance.
A suitable capacity test can establish a useful baseline, but avoid unnecessary deep discharges and use the specified cutoff. For a receiver pack, also verify power under the model’s actual servo load. A capacity number by itself does not prove that the installation can supply brief current peaks.
Why should I test voltage at the receiver while the servos move?
A pack can show acceptable voltage at rest and still sag when the servos demand current. Check the installed battery, switch, wiring, connectors, and any regulator or battery eliminator circuit (BEC). Measure at the receiver using the radio manufacturer’s ground-test procedure, with propulsion disabled; do not hold servos stalled.
The Spektrum AR631 manual explains receiver power-system checks and brownouts. Its limits are model-specific, so use the requirements for your own radio. A single voltage reading also does not reliably tell you that a fixed percentage of capacity remains.
When should I replace an RC receiver battery?
Stop using a pack that is damaged, leaking, overheating, or failing its specified tests. Follow any manufacturer replacement interval and consider age, usage, storage, and changes from its earlier test results. There is no guaranteed safe service life that applies to every pack.
A receiver reset or unexplained loss of control warrants checking the complete supply, including the switch and connectors. An old battery that still shows voltage is not necessarily trustworthy under load. Horizon Hobby’s guide to old RC receiver batteries discusses why testing matters before returning a model to flight.
LiPo use and choosing a replacement pack
Should I fly a LiPo-powered RC model until low-voltage cutoff?
Plan to land before the electronic speed control’s low-voltage cutoff (LVC), while keeping the correct LiPo protection enabled. Use the ESC and battery manufacturer’s settings, a conservative flight timer, and appropriate telemetry to plan your reserve. Do not disable protection or rely only on noticing reduced power.
LVC is not the same as the BEC: the BEC supplies receiver power, while LVC is the ESC’s response to low propulsion-battery voltage. The Pro Boat manual’s LVC explanation describes cutoff as protection and cautions against repeated operation to that point. It is an example of the principle, not a setting prescription for your airplane.
How should I charge and store a LiPo battery?
Use a compatible lithium charger, the correct chemistry and cell count, and the battery’s approved charge rate. Use cell balancing as specified and the correct storage program when instructed. Never transfer NiMH/NiCd charging rules, wall-charger methods, or trickle charging to a LiPo pack.
Supervise charging on the specified safe surface and stop if a pack becomes damaged, abnormally hot, or swollen. Do not attempt to revive or recharge a damaged pack. Follow Horizon Hobby’s lithium battery safety guidance and the instructions supplied with your own battery and charger.
How do I choose a replacement RC receiver or transmitter battery?
Match the equipment’s approved chemistry, cell count, voltage range, connector polarity, dimensions, and current requirements. A higher mAh number alone does not make a pack compatible. Check weight and the model’s balance, and make sure your charger can service the replacement.
For receiver power, start with our 4.8V versus 6V receiver-battery guide and RC connector and wire chart. A 2S LiPo or LiFe pack is not an automatic substitute for a four- or five-cell nickel pack. For transmitter-specific plugs and layouts, use the transmitter battery and connector help page.
Find the right battery or ask for help
Browse NiMH receiver packs, NiMH/NiCd transmitter packs, or RC battery chargers. If the label or instructions are unclear, contact Radical RC with the radio model, battery label, charger model, and connector details before choosing a setting or replacement.