JR/universal male to two Futaba J females connector style.

Heavy Duty, Silicone Insulated approximately 20 gauge twisted servo wire. .008" diameter x 90 wire-strand. Futaba colors, 3 conductor, fine strand and supple.

HINT: Silicone insulated wires are extra supple, wear and heat resistant. High quality wire is a "must use" when the wire must take many repeated bends, passes through a hinge line, is located in an unsupported high vibration area, or where high heat is an issue. For example, near exhaust tunnels or pipes or anything that could come into contact with an engine. Also, as a side note, because of the very high temperatures it takes the melt the silicone insulation, a momentary short is NOT likely to lead to the insulation melting and a new permanent short forming. These are the basic advantages of silicone insulated wire.

HINT #2: Twisted wire tends to reduce radio interference if you have lots of long servo leads in your model.
Select length desired below, cut in bulk. Need more than 100', increase quantity in cart.

SORRY, TEMPORARILY OUT OF STOCK 

JR/universal male to two Futaba J females connector style.

Example photo is of our .032 park flier size "Flexi-Keeper" retaining an L bent push rod and a control horn.

Control horn & wire are not included in set.

Tidy up and protect your servo wire. 3mm fits 1 servo cable. Works like Chinese finger cuffs, push ends toward center of piece to open up to insert wiring. Very nice for heli applications, keeps wires from straying and protects from friction damage. 3-foot packs available in Orange & Yellow. See other listings for color and size options.

Limited quantities, while supplies last... 

The Mini Hunter may also be powered with direct drive props if you like. Any two 12mm motors will fly it. For brushed use Twin 50XC motors. Remember, this model will get off in 12 feet, climb at 45 degrees or better, and is plenty quick with the brushed fans. You do not need brushless to have a cool model here, but we've got it to serve up to those wanting to build a monster.

Newest Power System? Another cool setup is twin 12mm 50XC 4.8V motors wired in series on 2 or 3S.

Specifications:
Finished weight 7.75-9 oz.
Wing span 23".
Wing area 132in. sq.
Length 19.5"

Build as 3 or 4 channels, requires 4 each .2oz or less servos, small RX like Berg Microstamp 4L RX, Castle Pixie 7 or GWS ICS300 for 40mm fans (yes one esc drives both motors for brushed). Twin Castle TBird 9's for twin brushless fans on 3-3 props. Use a high discharge pack, weight budget for the battery will accommodate 2S 640 to 3S 1000.

International shipping note: box size is 24 inches long and approximately 16oz. weight.

RC Groups Discussion

If you select a receiver (RX), tell us which channel you need at checkout.

TEMPORARILY OUT OF STOCK, PRODUCTION PENDING 

1. Use in conjunction with an amp meter to test current to any one servo or between the battery pack and the entire system. 2. Use a combo of your amp meter and ESV to see how far your battery voltage is depressing at a given load. 3. Use in combination with our ESV to see what your voltage is while your system switch is on. A jumper plug is used to complete the connection when your doing volt only and no amp tests. Regular hobby battery test and charge cords (you probably already own) can be used to interact with this Y harness.

Here is how is how to use me:
To measure current. First set your meter to measure amps and set it one setting higher than you expect to measure so as not to damage your meter. For a typical aircraft you might start at 5 or 10 amps range to be safe. You can reduce the range later (if that is an option) once you know your not going to over drive it. For many digital meters you'll have only two settings, one low like 300mah or less and one for over 300mah up to 10 amps. Use the higher of these two settings for most applications. Unplug the jumper plug. The jumper plug is shown unplugged above at the top of the photo. Plug your JR or Futaba RX charge cord in where the jumper was (notice all black wires here) plug the banana ends of your charge cord into your meter (most meters use standard 4mm banana inputs) correctly. Your meter completes the ground wire connection between your battery and your RX or Servo (or whatever load your checking). Run your device and take your reading.

To measure voltage, Set meter for DC, if it has a set of ranges, choose a lower range like up to 10V (this setting should be above what you expect to measure). Plug the jumper back in and plug your charge cord into the other arm of the Y. Plug the banana plugs from your charge cord into your meters volt check inputs. Take reading.

If you have 2 meters, you can test voltage and amps load at the same instant. Also, with 2 Test Y Harnesses, you can take readings between the battery and also at a distant servo. Maybe you want to know how much voltage drop there is at the end of the line in your tail servos for example. In this case you need to know the loaded voltage at the battery and also at the distant servo to see what the actual drop in your wiring harness's really is. If you only measure at the servo your total voltage drop will be the total of the wiring and the battery and not just the wiring.

Not reccomended for any in-flight applications.
SKU Number: RRCYTEST

Note: True 20 gauge is so large there is no room inside the connector shell for insulation hence you get no strain relief. This wire is as close to 20-gauge as is practically possible while still allowing a thin silicone insulation jacket for strain relief into the shell and connector pin. This is our very best radio wire. See further description of wire types and strand counts in the bulk wire area.

TEMPORARILY OUT OF STOCK 

Specifications:
Input Voltage Range: 5-30v
Output Voltage: 5V
Output Amps: 3A continuous; 10A surge
Regulation Method: Switch Rate
Weight: 16.3g (.582 oz)
Size: 2" x 1" x .5" at thickest point
Wire Length: >8" input and output

Instructions:
Install between switch harness and your RX. Switch must be between battery and regulator, not between regulator and RX.

TEMPORARILY OUT OF STOCK, COMING SOON! 

Normally stocked in assorted colors. If you have preference, list first and second choice. Wire size is .062 (1/16"), puchasing an extra set of wheel collars is suggested.

WHILE SUPPLIES LAST, COLOR AVAILABILITY NOT GUARANTEED

Note: Stock machine made sizes and are lower cost and can suit many needs, find them in the connector category to fit your specific brand.

KEY: Think of a 1 legged stick man, the RX connector is the "Leg" and each side of the "Y" that connects to a servo is an "Arm".

Photo by SkyPielet

How does it work? If you look close you can see our unobtrusive elevator servo (we used a GWS Pico) on the canard support strut. This servo drives the top canard which in turn, drives the bottom canard through a simple transfer rod. The canards move up and down together on thier own individual pivots like the original 1905 flyer. The rudder servo is adhered to the bottom of the bottom wing with a Dubro Micro Push rod (1/32 wire in clear plastic tube) driving the rudder. The rudder moves like the original 1905, both together. Perhaps the most exciting feature is this model flys with real wing warping. The outside wing strut assembly has a servo hidden under the bottom wing driving a diagonal rod that appears to be a simple bracing rod in the scale location. Forget the Eindecker like wings, wouldn't it be gross if this model didn't turn by real wing warping? You're going to love this feature every time you show how it works.

How does it fly? I was amazed, after some initial hiccups working out the right setup. We've refined CG and throws until it flies more or less like you'd expect a trainer to fly. It is a bit draggy so you tend to fly with a middle throttle position most of the time and you will want to be comfortable flying with both hands as this design likes rudder inputs. However, you'll soon agree it flies like a trainer. Provided in the kit is the CG you need along with servo horn lengths, control throws and even exactly where to trim the canard for that first flight.

How does it build? This is not a normal kit, it's mostly nut and bolting with some foam trimming and fitting here and there a little gluing and some finishing (staining). If like me, your favorite ever childhood toy was an Erector set, you're about to feel young again! Now I know you hated those square nuts and slot head screws (I did) so we included all hex wrench driven button heads and ny-lock nuts. There is a surprising amount of aircraft ply in this kit. The main structure starts out as a 24"x24" section of 1/8" thick air ply (cuts slower on a laser) and it's packed tightly with many parts. Needless to say, there is a lot of laser cutting time here. It has the longest hardware list of any kit we've ever designed and the longest instruction set I've ever written including several drawings/templates. Ron, who built both of our in-house prototype models said he needs 3 work days to complete one. So, please plan enough time, it's very important to us that you actually finish it and get it flying. I want to hear the joy in your voice and see the pride on your face when you tell me about it at the next show.

Whats included? All the hardware needed that isn't already in the Slow Stick kits is included here. All fasteners are good quality allen head bolts with lock nuts. There are 88 washers and you can guess how many nuts and bolts.

What do you need to complete? Add 2 motors (max 2oz, 800-1200 KV), 2 stick type motor mounts, 2 ESC's, APC counter rotating prop set, electronics (2 each 6 gram servos, 2 each 20oz torque servos (we used HB-65's), and 1 each 3S battery 1800-2200mah. Extensions and Y's. For motors under 1000 kv, use 10-4.7 props, 1000-1200 kv use 10-3.8 props.

Direct Link: wright Stick Build Log.

In Flight Video "GalaxieX" from Canada." Configured with custom gear and FPV system. Looks like SUPER FUN!