Tired fussing with the tiny rubber band pegs on the stock GWS mount? Wishing you had more or less dihedral? Want to raise the wing up and make a true high wing out of it? Maybe you need to raise the wing and make room for your camera? How about a Low Wing Slow Stick? You've found the parts!
Generally, as you add dihedral and/or raise the wing up you get more yaw induced roll. This is to say your rudder will be more effective. The stock dihedral is 12 degrees. Maybe you're looking for a flatter wing layout to help make ailerons more effective? Also, if you have ailerons, you wish for the yaw to be more pure yaw and less roll. All these parts are here to aid in your experiments.
Incidentally, you'll have to bend your wing tubes for these higher dihedrals. This isn't too difficult if you have reasonable hand strength, insert carbon rods to aid and pull around a corner like the side corner of a pine 2x4.
Select Wing Mount Riser Lift first: -1 is the low wing set moving wing below the stick; 0 is near or like stock; actually my 0 starts just a fraction higher than factory mount; 1"; 2"; and 3" (refers to "inches" higher than the my 0 mount).
Next, select the Perch Dihedral...Note, 24 degrees recommended for low wing risers: 0 degrees (flat); 5 (less than stock); 12 (stock); 16; 20; 24; or 55 for a whacked out 3 channel rolling monster.
Replacement Motor Stick for our Adjustable Motor Mount Mount Kit. Single ended stick with mounting slots. Each package 2 sticks. SKU Number: RRCSSAMMRMS
Tricycle gear made easy for your GWS Slow Stick. After seeing a friend's setup which was overly flexible needing constant adjustment, I designed this handy nose gear block for him. The GWS landing gear wire is 1 size too small. Our Nose Gear Block is made to take 3/32 or .094 wire (Part # KS506). This kit is the nose gear block only, no wire or other hardware included. Just squeeze together and wick in thin CA. You're done. It's made so a single Dubro 3/32 wheel collar (Part # DUB138) retains the wire in the block. Remove the set screw and replace with a long 4-40 bolt. Notice how we did this using a short section of glow tubing as a friction lock for the steering pushrod. Unit fits the Slow Stick fuse nicely, use a dab of Goop adhesive to lock in location on stick. Maybe you can find some other uses?
Trick parts for adding Ailerons to your slow stick. These horns are special and differ from the tail horns. Comes with servo mounting pads, stick these down with Foam Safe CA, GWS glue included with Slow Sticks or any other foam safe adhesive. Pad is made from 1/64th aircraft ply so it is flexible and will match contour of wing easily. Glue servo (CA or Goop) to pad. (servos glued directly to the foam can be torn off easily). Spacers are provided so you can adjust horn to fit 4 or 5mm thick wings. Enough parts to do both ailerons on one wing.
The aileron is cut out from the stock GWS molding on the back of the wing. Here is how I did it.
Instructions: 1.Press hobby pins through the color side at the corners of the aileron hinge line depression molded into the wing. Glue a balsa block to the side of your hobby knife so only about 1/8" of the blade sticks past the block. This block becomes a stop for the next step to stop you from cutting too deeply. Flip the wing over and put a steel straight edge against the pins (we are now working from the white or bottom side of the wing). Use your altered hobby knife to slice the foam from pin to pin in a straight line without piercing through the top surface or colored skin of the wing. 2. Line up a steel straight edge on the top surface of the wing and cut the cordwise lines (those going for and aft) at the ends of the aileron. Once cut, Move your rule over about 1/32" and take an extra sliver out. This way the edges of the aileron won't touch and bind as it moves back and forth.
3: Aileron is now free. Flex the aileron towards the colored side and the foam will crack up (from the bottom) to colored skin.
4: Hold the aileron so it's vertical or 90 to the top surface and use a sanding bar to sand the hinge line down flat so that both the wing and the aileron end up with a 45 degree bevel in the hinge line. BUT WAIT! When you sand, do so carefully, as you see the color (of the top surface skin) begining to peek through the foam, stop sanding. You don't want to cut this skin. The top skin becomes a living hinge. I added Blenderm tape to the bottom of my hinge line while it was flexed up to make sure I had a durable hinge.
Step 5 Warning! Your making each wing a mirror image of of the other, look carefully so both servos are placed opposite each other, pads are betweed same ribs and offset to similarly relative to the center of the wing.
5: Glue servo pad to wing. GWS foam glue or any other foam safe CA may be used. After the pads are cured, glue your servos to the servo pad. Cut the slot in the aileron so the holes in the horn are lined up over the hinge line you just cut in. Use the spacers (one long one aginst the foam) so the when the clip is installed the horn is snug. Remove, add glue and put back together. Make pushrod from .055 wire (same stuff used for slow stick pushrods) and your done.
Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want re-glue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
Same great performance as our twin EDF-64 mounts but all in one boom mounted unit "Wart Hog" Style. Photo shown teasingly on my very own Hog Stick to tickle your imagination. Fans slip into mounting hoops with slight press fit. Apply section of scotch tape on fan housing between hoops so housing cannot slip past hoop. Simple and effective. Down thrust is fully adjustable with this mount.
Each kit comes with high quality fasteners.
Motor and ESC combo option has been removed due to inavailability.
We formerly recommended: Combo A-Brushed = 2 each EDF-64H Fans complete, GWS 600LI ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails. This set will provide good performance for a low cost twin fan system. Model should finish about 24oz, about 14oz static thrust combined, not a bad ratio for low and slow tank pounding fly-by's!
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1500-2100 size pack is required. Deans or Anderson Power Poles are suggested between ESC(s) and battery. Solder to one input plug.
Slow Stick Biplane made easy! Lots of us have wanted to try this but few have taken time to make all the special parts required. Now you don't have to make anything. Let's be clear, you only "thought" you had a "Slow Stick", you'll really have a "Slow" stick after doing this conversion. If you like backing up on a breezy day, you'll be moon-walking with 2/3 the breeze once you've doubled the wing area. A Biplane conversion also looks much bigger. What an imposing presence your new Bipe will have among the lesser endowed Slow Sticks at the next Fly-In you attend.
Like our mono-wing mounts above, you must choose the wing perches you want to match your desired wing dihedral. Our shop model uses 24 degree perches (as shown in the photo) and to me it feels just perfect. More dihedral gets you a more "active" roll function when you put in a rudder command. Conversion kit work just fine with stock dihedral (12 degrees) if you like but expect roll control to be soft. Choose the perch set that you think best matches the personality your going for in your new biplane.
Correct CG for this wing mount set is 5 3/8" back from leading edge of top wing. Note one strut set has an "F" etched in and this is the "Front" mount.
Many ideas are open for experiment and consideration. For instance many biplanes use a shorter bottom wing and at times the dihedral angle may differ slightly from top to bottom. Release your imagination and be creative.
The wing struts are an option listed on this page. Not required but aid in stiffening up your wing assembly and add a dash of "looks right" to your dog-fighter.
Wing riser spreaders (look like a letter H) are included with all the perch sets and are needed to complete the wing risers for all the mono-wing mounts. These parts are extra and discarded when you build the bipe setup.
There are no official instructions or diagrams. It only fits together one way. If the part fits, it goes there. Squeeze it all together fully, wick in thin CA from outside of square tube hole. The Y shaped perch sets (surface you mount the wing too) comes with little spreader pieces, looks like a fat letter I. These parts are for other wing mounts and discarded when building the Bipe setup. The front mount is the one that would mount the leading edges highest.
There are no other instructions than what is stated above, as it's way too simple for any more really. Read the above listing, it will give other info such as CG. Enjoy!
Photos of examples of Wing Mount Risers kit and Perch Dihedrals kit (sizes vary) for your reference.
.400 wide by 8 5/8" long section of double sided tape. Used to mount Slow Stick vertical stab to side of boom. Many other uses possible. Genuine factory replacement part.
The stock battery mount for the slow stick is a little finicky to use. We believe it was made originally for 350 NiCads. Our mount fixes several issues. First, it has plenty of surface area if you like to use mounting Velcro. It is slotted and includes Velcro tie straps. It will retain these tie straps when the battery is not in place so no worries about them getting lost. Second, there are multiple places to easily hook on rubber bands. Any way you like to mount your battery is accommodated well with this mount.
Our long length mount will hold most any pack around 2500 or less in capacity in the normal long or short profile. Any pack 4.5" long (114mm) or less fits nicely.
Mount stands off slightly from the fuse boom so it may be positioned to overlap our wing mounts, main gear mounts even the motor mount if you like a forward location better. We have used this mount to suspend the battery above the boom also. It could also be used for "side" mounting if you need to balance against a camera or other onboard device that is off center.
120 degree V-Tail Mounting Kit. Precision, laser cut quick build kit. She'll fly like an Angle but won't look like everybody else's hound after making this mod. The V tail is made from just one stock Horizontal stabilizer cut in 1/2. A slight V notch needs to be crafted in the elevator portion as shown in the photo. Comes with nice light weight nylon hardware. You'll need a radio with "Elevon" mixing (or open mixes available) to get both controls on the right stick (mode 2 for us Yankees). If your radio lacks this feature it is available on our site as a carry onboard electronic device.
Of course, you'll want a real tail wheel mount or go tricycle gear like I did. These parts go nicely with the V tail mount and are available in this category.
Tired of your Slow Stick tail bending, flapping in the wind at your higher than normal speed? Wishing for more rigid control? Here is your ultimate tail upgrade!! This tail will not flutter and is many times more rugged than the stock tail. If your worried about tail loads lifting heavy weights, flying fast or just plain love the idea of Slow Sticks but hate foam, welcome to heaven.
A fully self jigging stick built tail. You can press this together and shake it up in the air hard as you like, nothing is falling apart. I'm tempted to cover one without glue for experimental (show off ;-) purposes. However, I do recommend you glue it together. Simply piece the jigsaw together, hold to flat surface and wick thin CA into all the joints, bevel the elevator and rudder 45 degrees for tape hinges (or 90 degree points for CA hinges), round out the edges, surface sand, cover, mount, hook up control rods and fly.
Kit comes as complete package with our custom upgrade horn set and vertical stab mount system. ($6 upgrades value) and instructional drawing. Parts are exact stock shape (except no hard to cover scallops) and hinge lines. Laser cut from 3/16 balsa right here in the good ol' USA. Mounting holes and control horn holes are all pre-made. Your tail will go on straight and true. Additionally, the stab mount has provisions for moving the stab forward from stock location in order to give you more elevator throw if your building an aerobatic monster. Fully compatible with Stevens Aero or Millennium upgrade kits.
Don't forget to get some transparent covering for this kit, she is a real beauty when complete.
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, flux capacitors and etc.... Each package includes 4 tabs.
Finally it's easy to convert to a T tail. Complete with washer plates. Glue to your stab and horizontal or use 4-40 nylon bolt/nuts in the pre drilled holes. May also be used for mounting verticals to the ends of your stab. Works with any 5mm foam. If using with stock Slow Stick parts, trim the top of the vertical down until you have a flat spot long enough for this mount. Comes complete with washer plates to prevent bolt damage to surfaces.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering. One images shows part being used to mount a fin to the center of the wing on our Twin Tractor Canard model in the shop.
NEW! PARTIAL MISSING PART(S), WE DON'T KNOW WHAT IS MISSING. Slow Stick X - X-Trainer Repair Kits (WOOD ONLY) Includes laser-cut balsa and ply to build either SSX or X-Trainer Tail section. These repair kits are of the new design. Hardware and instructions which are included in "Short Kit" are not included in this repair kit. This item is the Tail Kit Only.
Tan rubber bands stick out sorely on a red Slow Stick wing. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick, plain packaging.
At last, an easy and low cost high performance Slow Stick Twin. Gone are the days of strapping a heavy boom to the bottom of the wing with the resulting up thrust and poor handling. You can have a twin and have it fly correctly! With the Radical RC twin conversion kit you can make any Slow Stick into a twin. You can even make it into a 4 engine WWI Faux Bomber if you wish (with 2 kits). Our kit does not alter your wing in any way, attaches with simple rubber bands so you can always alter or return to a prior configuration if you like. Optionally; cut the tail off this mount and glue them into your wing for a permanent band free installation if desired.
Each kit comes with 2 mounts and high quality socket head fasteners.
For those wanting to configure a forward looking still or movie camera setup without prop interference, you've just gained an excellent option.
Check drop downs for motor and ESC combo specials to go with this item.
Combo A-Brushed = 2 each 370-B gearbox's and motors, GWS 480 ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails & 1 set of GWS 8-4 x3 Blade Counter Rotating props. This set will provide excellent performance with straight up climb yet speed controlled just right for the Slow Stick. Wide open throttle time should be limited to 30 seconds, current will be about 10 amps per motor at WOT, max continuous is 8 amps. Who would have ever thought you could setup a high performance twin so inexpensively! Don't assume brushed setups can't be high perfromance, this system will really rock! The Price is OUTSTANDING!!
COMBO-B-Brushless = 2 each GWS 002 Outrunner, 2 GWS 28mm outrunner mounts, 2 Brushless ESC's, 2 sets 3.5mm bullets & 1 set of GWS 8-4 x3 Blade Counter Rotating props. Although bullet-like connectors come with the GWS motor, anybody with an ounce of sense changes them to real gold bullets. This setup performs nearly identical to the brushed above for a few amps lower draw.
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1000-2100 size pack is required. For Brushed setup, be sure to use Deans or Anderson Power Poles between ESC and battery. For brushless twin with single pack, solder both ESC's to one input plug.
This special part allows you to glue in place a stop. Great for setups you want to be able to dismantle quickly. We made this part for a Slow Stick in the shop that the owner setup to take down and fit back in the box after a flying session. He can glue use these stops to set the location of one of his wing mounts.
Another interesting use is as a spacer to set the distance between accessories. Also useful as a slip on bushing to glue your special projects to. Laser cut from 3/16 aircraft grade plywood. Rugged enough for most any use. Each package contains 4 stops.
Mounts two servos easily. Tired of the GWS mount splitting and pulling the grommets out of your servos every time you stop abruptly (crash)? A slow and tedious repair when you should be flying. Our mount is tied together to prevent this problem. Also allows mounting of servo set low or high relative to the boom.
Although you can use this mount to put the servos anywhere along the boom, we've found a great enhancement putting the servos right back at the tail and using the stock music wire for short pushrod wires. You'll get rid of pushrod wire weight but the real advantage is your eliminate tons of pushrod flex, your controls will tighten up and you'll find she handles a little more solid in a breeze.
Kit allows use of different size servos. I like 6 gram servos like Pico's and HS-55's on my sticks. You might think moving the servos back would cause your stick to become tail heavy but remember your eliminating pushrod weight and what your moving back wasn't up front, it was already somewhat to the rear already. We find it works out just fine and the model is still easily balanced.
Use to offset a second boom from your main boom. Imgaine a Schiender cup racer but rather than a float centered under the fuse, we're adding a second boom. Original intention is to locate a second boom below your main boom to hold landing gear, battery and camera mount for FPV experimenters. In this way (with other parts available separately) Can be used to configure Slow Stick for single tractor motor with camera position in front of prop if you like.
Other uses are possible, perhaps you want to put a boom up above your wing to hold motor or camera above prop. Use your imagination with this special kit.
On model in photo parts are colored black with permanent marker. Made from laser cut 3/32 Aircraft Plywood. This kit offsets second boom with 4 3/8" gap.
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, ghost detectors and etc.... Each package includes 4 double mount tabs. Mount two accessories on your stick.
The GWS Slow Stick is a fun model right out of the box in stock configuration. Adding an adjustable thrust line motor stick allows you to trim in down and right thrust to suit. Imagine going from cruise to wide open throttle and the model does not automatically go into a loop! Makes the aircraft much smoother and more trim neutral whether flying around or doing wacked out 3 channel aerobatics. Comes in an easy build laser cut kit. All fasteners and washers included. Good SAE socket head fasteners. Simply build the kit, remove your motor mount from the GWS motor stick, slide our mount on, bolt to fuse, put your motor mount on the adjustable stick and run the bolt through. Now do some trial flights and adjust to taste. Allows for thrust lines from 0-8 degrees down and 0-3 degrees right. Useful for Millennium RC SSX and SS Trainer kits or for Sticks turned into Canards as it works just perfect in pusher configuration. Fantastic addition to any Slow Stick being used as teaching aids as the thrust line may be adjusted to demonstrate effects.
Aluminum tubes required to build a straight wing, no dihedral Slow Stick Wing set up. Easily Bent to your chosen Dihedral. Note the pre-bent GWS 12-degree tubes are discontinued. Good precision fit to factory 3mm spars and a little longer than factory part at 3" to reduce spar wobble inside of tube.
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 "Slow Stick Adjustable Motor Mount Replacement Motor Sticks")
 "Slow Stick Nose Gear Block Kit")
 "Slow Stick Aileron Conversion Set")
 "Slow Stick Vertical Stabilizer Mount 5mm")
 "Slow Stick Wart Hog Twin EDF64 Fan Adjustable Mount Kit")
 "Screw Set For Slow Stick")
 "Slow Stick BIPE Wing Mount Set")
 "Double Sided Tape For Slow Stick Tail")
 "Slow Stick Battery Tray Mount Kit, Long")
 "Slow Stick V-Tail Mounting Kit")
 "Slow Stick Balsa Tail Group")
 "Slow Stick Angle Mounting Tabs Kit")
 "Slow Stick 5mm T Tail Mount")
 "Partial* Slow Stick X / X Trainer Tail Repair Kit, missing part(s) - SOLD AS IS*")
 "Red Slow Stick Rubber Bands, 1/4 LB")
 "Slow Stick Twin Prop Adjustable Motor Mount Kit")
 "Slow Stick Boom Stop Set")
 "Slow Stick Vertical Stabilizer Mount 6mm")
 "Slow Stick Dual Servo Mounting Kit")
 "Slow Stick Offset Boom Mounts")
 "Slow Stick Straight Double Mounting Tabs Kit")
 "Slow Stick Twin Prop Drive Replacement Motor Sticks")
 "Slow Stick Adjustable Motor Mount Kit")
 "Slow Stick Aluminum Straight Wing Tube Set")
