NEW, *PARTIAL KIT IS MISSING PART(S) (WE DON'T KNOW WHAT IS MISSING) SOLD AS IS/NON-WARRANTY Slow Stick X - X-Trainer Repair Kits (WOOD ONLY) Includes laser-cut balsa and ply to build either SSX or X-Trainer Wing. These repair kits are of the new design. Hardware and instructions which are included in "Short Kit" are not included in this repair kit. This item is the Wing kit only, PARTIAL, MISSING PARTS(S).
Slow Stick Canard made easy! This all-in-one unit will mount your horizontal stab and allow angle of attack adjustments to suit your special setups. Most canards should be set to between 3 and 5 degrees positive. Range of adjust ment is from 0 to 7 degrees positive. Elevator servo moves with the canard mounting surface so your elevator adjustment stays the same relative to your canard when you alter the angle of attack setting. Mount has built in nose gear block and nose gear steering servo mount. All holes are predrilled. Includes high quality socket head hardware needed to complete.
My personal Slow Stick Canard is a twin tractor. I have a 1000mm boom length and the CG is set at 1-1.25" in ffront of the main wing leading edge. I have never built one with a stock boom length (800mm) but I would start with the CG in the range of 0-.5" in front of the leading edge. The shorter the boom the further the CG comes back, the longer the further forward you would place it. I don't know where Bob Masterson's CG is set but I would thing it is similar to my 1000mm boom setup.
Maiden Flight Video of Bob Masterson's converted Canard Slow Stick. This model is full house with 10" extended boom length.
This bushing set allows you to build the hard points for mounting simple shaft type struts into your Slow Stick Biplane conversion wing panels. Made from 1/64" thick aircraft ply. Rods are not included. You can use carbon, fiberglass, aluminum or brass tubing as we did. I think lightly stained 1/8" wood dowel would look very trick as well; anything about 1/8" diameter. I choose the more antique look of the brass on my biplane. I wonder if my more period correct SS Biplane would qualify for Top Gun now?
Installing these hard points still allows you to use the wing panels on other monoplanes. The strut shafts are passed through the hard point with a section of glow fuel line pressed on the shaft and slid up against the hard point on both top and bottom.
Locate where you like, we put ours on the high point of the airfoil (about 2 3/4" back from leading edge) and in the middle of the second section of sagging cloth (what the wing shape simulates) as counted in from the wing tip. Mark these spots carefully, glue the teardrop shaped piece on top of each wing panel. Now, mount your wings on your airframe. We cut our rods to 10 1/2" as this seems to leave the right amount sticking through. By hand carefully cut or drill your 1/8" pass through hole for the rod. Now, slip two 1/4" long sections of fuel line about 1.5" onto each end of a strut shaft. Place a 1/4" ply washer on each shaft end followed by the oval washer. Now install the rod between the wing panels. Slide the oval washer up to the bottom of each wing (orient it span-wise) and glue in place. When this has set, glue the 1/4" washer in place over the oval washer. Glue in place the 1/4" washer on the top surface (on the teardrop). The rods are now held in place with two more sections of fuel line on the tip. Using the rods as a jig to align the strut bushings (hard-points) is a real help. As you can see the rods go through the wing at an angle because of dihedral.
Building a custom Slow Stick from scratch? Wish to eliminate the weight of the factory joiner and it's fasteners? Want an even stronger Slow Stick? Here is your boom. 800mm long. 10x10mm. Exact same fit as GWS tube so all your factory parts and Radical RC upgrades will fit perfectly. I strongly prefer building our custom Slow Sticks from parts starting with 1 piece booms. The GWS 2 piece boom works perfect but I like the simpler lower parts count of one solid tube and you will also.
International buyers: (Outside USA) These booms exceed the allowable length for First class shipments. Your minimum shipping fee will be at least $20 because they must go International Priority Mail due to length. In a recent example a customer from Canada ordered 1.7lbs of goods. The First Class cost was $7, however because the boom length forces Priority Mail the cost becomes $21. The same example to UK the price goes from $15-$30.
Wrong color rubber bands stick out sorely on Slow Stick wings. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick, plain packaging.
Mounts one servo easily. Tired of the GWS mount splitting and pulling the grommets out of your servos every time you stop abruptly (crash)? A slow and tedious repair when you should be flying. Our mount is tied together to prevent this problem. Also allows mounting of servo set low or high relative to the boom. Great way to mount your single servo for nose gear, camera or drop box actuation. Maybe you want to move one servo back to the tail and eliminate some pushrod slop? Whatever the case, our mount gets the job done cleanly.
Tip: This shot shows how to use a section of fuel line to connect a control rod. Slips easily in a bump and quick to adjust.
We use this part when we want to put the axle directly over or under the boom (May be flipped up or down to get high or low axle). Used in our offset boom FPV prototype. Now available to you for whatever you'd like. Setup for 3/32 wire (Part # KS506), can be drilled larger. For larger spreads, larger wire is a must. In photo we drilled axle holes out to 1/8". We used 11" long axle wire (music wire) and 3" Maxx Products (MPIEPW300) wheels in the photo. Use wheel collar to lock axle in place in gear mount.
Although it is possible for the axle to turn in the mount, it is intended to be snug fit and the wheels to turn on the axle. Glued together with thin CA. The photo's unit was built and painted black with a permanent marker for that "I'm too poor to make this in real carbon" look. This item is the laser cut wood kit to make the Axle Gear Mounting block as shown. Axle (made from music wire KS506), wheel collars (Part # DUB138) and wheels are shown in photo in order to illustrate product use but are not included.
Use this part in conjunction with pusher mount, nose gear block, battery tray(s) to make a 3 wheel air car! I think this might be my next project. ;-)
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, alien gravity variometers and etc.... Each package includes 4 tabs. SKU Number: RRCSSMTSTR8
Wrong color rubber bands stick out sorely on Slow Stick wings. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick, plain packaging.
Based on modern Ultra Stick designs and inspired by classic "Stick" models of the past, the Slow Ultra Stick 1.2m offers unique "mild to wild" performance and capabilities - from slow flying to aggressive aerobatics in yards, at parks and beyond!
Introduction
Inspired by similar "Stick" models from the past and based on the more modern-day design of Ultra Stick models, the Slow Ultra Stick is a "slow flyer" that also offers a wide range of performance and capabilities to deliver a unique flying experience unlike any other model available today! Use a 2S battery for slow flying indoors in large gymnasiums and other suitable spaces, in many yards, at most parks and sports fields - and to perform basic aerobatics including loops, rolls, and inverted flight. Or use a 3S 1300-2200mAh battery to hover and perform even more aggressive aerobatics thanks to the stiff and fully-molded EPO tails and wing with a semi-symmetrical airfoil. You can even install a second aileron servo to take advantage of the added capabilities flaperons and spoilerons offer. The Slow Ultra Stick is simple yet extremely capable while also being incredibly easy to fly for low-time pilots looking for a perfect "Next Step" after a trainer model and for experienced pilots looking for a model that offers a no hassles "mild to wild" flight experience they can't get with any other model.
Overview
The E-flite® Slow Ultra Stick 1.2m is based on the more modern-day design of Ultra Stick models yet was inspired by classic "Stick" models from the past. In the early 2000s, slow-flying Stick models took the market by storm because they were affordable, simple, and easy to fly. But they often took many hours to assemble with glue and tape and required significant modifications to achieve more performance and capabilities. The Slow Ultra Stick combines the benefits of those Stick models with modern-day capabilities, features, and performance due to the fully-molded and composite-reinforced tails plus wing with semi-symmetrical airfoil and ailerons. It also features a 2S and 3S-compatible brushless power system, including an exclusive Spektrum Avian Smart ESC. Plus, it's equipped with an AR630 receiver to deliver real-time telemetry data along with AS3X and SAFE Select technologies. It's capable of slow and easy cruising, sport flying, and even aggressive aerobatics - all in the same flight - to offer a unique and truly "mild to wild" flying experience unlike any other model available today. This makes it possible to fly indoors in large gymnasiums and other similar spaces or outdoors in yards, parks, at sports fields, and beyond, making it a versatile addition to the hangar for a wide variety of pilots! Best of all, unlike similar Stick models in the past that were only available as kits or ARFs, the Slow Ultra Stick arrives mostly factory-assembled with the power system, servos, and receiver installed. All you need to do is finish some quick and easy final bolt-together assembly - without glue, tape, or special tools - and you'll be ready to fly in less time than it takes to charge a battery! And even though it's conveniently sized so it can be stored and transported without disassembly, the two-piece wing is quick and easy to install/remove with two thumbscrews for even easier storage and transport.
All Slow Ultra Stick 1.2m models (EFL0350) include an updated version fuselage joiner (as of November 2023) and updated version landing gear legs (as of July 2023)
Inspired by classic slow flyer "Stick" models with modern-day technologies, features, and performance for "mild to wild" capabilities
Uniquely capable and versatile so it can be flown in more places and smaller spaces from yards to parks and beyond
Specially tuned brushless motor compatible with 2S and 3S batteries without the need for modifications
Durable and stiff, fully-molded, composite-reinforced EPO stabs plus a two-piece wing with a semi-symmetrical airfoil
Features:
Inspired by classic slow flyer "Stick" models with modern-day technologies, features, and performance for "mild to wild" capabilities
Uniquely capable and versatile so it can be flown in more places and smaller spaces from yards to parks and beyond
Specially tuned brushless motor compatible with 2S and 3S batteries without the need for modifications
Popular and affordable 1300-2200mAh batteries deliver a wide range of performance and flight times
30-amp Spektrum(TM) Avian(TM) Smart Lite ESC provides real-time battery voltage, motor RPM, and other data via compatible receivers and transmitters
Optional-use motor reversing for special ground handling and other capabilities
Compatible with the Spektrum(TM) DXS transmitter included with many RTF trainer models Spektrum(TM) AR630 receiver with fly-by range telemetry and industry-leading DSMX® technology
Easier to fly with innovative and optional-use SAFE® Select flight envelope protection The unmatched stability and locked-in feel of exclusive AS3X® technology
Three factory-installed digital servos plus the option to add a second aileron servo to utilize flaperons/spoilerons
Durable and stiff fully-molded, composite-reinforced EPO stabs plus a two-piece wing with a semi-symmetrical airfoil
Fast and easy bolt-together assembly - no glue, tape, or rubber bands required
Landing gear slides into place for easy installation, removal, and replacement
Oversized tires for the ability to take off and land on a variety of surfaces
Ever want to try a Slow Stick ducted fan conversion? Here it is. Uses off the shelf GWS EDF 64mm fans brushed or converted to brushless if you like. Now, don't tell us that Eindeckers never had jet power plants, we recently obtained archived 13th generation photo copies that seemed to show plans for just such a craft. Who's to say if they ever completed it or not? We built our model with the EDF-64H GWS brushed fans and let me tell you, this model really performs. I first flew it in about 12mph winds and with the throttle stick a little below 1/2 I was hanging it in the wind about 20' over my head and it was still creeping higher! Throttle range is excellent, plenty of power to blast out of trouble and reasonable speed for a slow stick. Now, this is not intended to be a fast fan model but then those are available around every corner. This setup will climb with authority (45 degrees or better), has good flight time, is aerobatic and certainly will turn heads at the local flying field. Before they see it fly, they'll be saying "How can that possibly work?", after flying they'll be asking "Where can I get those parts! It's amazing!"
Each kit comes with 2 mounts and high quality fasteners.
Motor and ESC combo drop down options have been removed due to inavailability. Our previous recommendations:
Combo A-Brushed = 2 each EDF-64H Fans complete, GWS 600LI ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails. This set will provide good performance for a low cost twin fan system. Model should finish about 24oz, you'll have about 14oz static thrust combined, not a bad ratio for WW1 low and slow jet fly-by's!
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1500-2100 size pack is required. Deans or Anderson Power Poles are suggested between ESC(s) and battery. Solder to one input plug.
Ever want to setup your bird as a pusher? Maybe you have a front mounted camera system and wish to remove the prop from your videos and photos. Mount is adjustable for down thrust over a nice range making an otherwise tedious trim adjustment easy. This mount was designed to be used as the wing mount also. If you wish to use only the motor mount without wing mount, that works well also. In a recent project (and I expect most people will) we used it as the wing mount system as well. It gives you 1" of wing rise which is popular already. Choose only your dihedral angle perches below. Good quality socket head fasteners are included.
Designed for use with props up to 10" using normal motor mounts. Mounts that put the shaft of the motor close to the stick like the 10mm Tower Pro Motor Mounts and the 20mm motor/stick mount setups tend to move the motor closer limiting the prop diameter to 9". If the entire motor body is above the motor stick a 10" prop will fit.
Special Note: It has been observed that this mount may be used as a forward facing (tractor) motor mount also. For under-boom mounted forward facing camera work, it is often desirable to raise the motor up to get the prop arc out of the photograph. This mount facing forward on the nose accomplishes just that while still allowing you to adjust for proper down thrust angle.
Here is a set of real carbon solid rods to stiffen up your slow stick wings. The factory rods, regardless if they are black or white are fiberglass. These are much stiffer holding your dihedral closer to your setting in flight. Great for models enduring a little toughness for camera work or big motor systems. This item is all 4 rods to do one wing, a pair of front and rear.
The stock factory tail wheel setup on a slow stick is weak. Use this light weight mounting block to build a steerable tail wheel mount. Bend your wire gear out of .055 music wire (Part # KS503) and your all set. Notice in the photo how simply we connected ours to the rudder pushrod. What? No glow line in the field box? We've got that material also. Combine with a .063 (1/16") wheel collar (Part # DUB137)to lock the wire in place (works like our nose gear retainer) and your all set.
Notice the bending pattern (non critical) that we are setting it up so the elevator is 1.5-2" off the ground. The idea is to leave a little range for shock absorbsion so you don't strip a servo gear if you smack the tail. It's not only about having stearing. ;-)
Need repair parts? Get 1/2 a wing mount set here. The riser is the vertical leg set (4 parts) that fix the distance from boom to wing mount surface. The Perch sets dihedral angle, is the mount surface, rubber band pegs, and the horizontal parts that fit between the risers to form a box to slip over the boom. SKU Number: RRCSSWMPARTS****
Tired fussing with the tiny rubber band pegs on the stock GWS mount? Wishing you had more or less dihedral? Want to raise the wing up and make a true high wing out of it? Maybe you need to raise the wing and make room for your camera? How about a Low Wing Slow Stick? You've found the parts!
Generally, as you add dihedral and/or raise the wing up you get more yaw induced roll. This is to say your rudder will be more effective. The stock dihedral is 12 degrees. Maybe you're looking for a flatter wing layout to help make ailerons more effective? Also, if you have ailerons, you wish for the yaw to be more pure yaw and less roll. All these parts are here to aid in your experiments.
Incidentally, you'll have to bend your wing tubes for these higher dihedrals. This isn't too difficult if you have reasonable hand strength, insert carbon rods to aid and pull around a corner like the side corner of a pine 2x4.
Select Wing Mount Riser Lift first: -1 is the low wing set moving wing below the stick; 0 is near or like stock; actually my 0 starts just a fraction higher than factory mount; 1"; 2"; and 3" (refers to "inches" higher than the my 0 mount).
Next, select the Perch Dihedral...Note, 24 degrees recommended for low wing risers: 0 degrees (flat); 5 (less than stock); 12 (stock); 16; 20; 24; or 55 for a whacked out 3 channel rolling monster.
Replacement Motor Stick for our Adjustable Motor Mount Mount Kit. Single ended stick with mounting slots. Each package 2 sticks. SKU Number: RRCSSAMMRMS
Tricycle gear made easy for your GWS Slow Stick. After seeing a friend's setup which was overly flexible needing constant adjustment, I designed this handy nose gear block for him. The GWS landing gear wire is 1 size too small. Our Nose Gear Block is made to take 3/32 or .094 wire (Part # KS506). This kit is the nose gear block only, no wire or other hardware included. Just squeeze together and wick in thin CA. You're done. It's made so a single Dubro 3/32 wheel collar (Part # DUB138) retains the wire in the block. Remove the set screw and replace with a long 4-40 bolt. Notice how we did this using a short section of glow tubing as a friction lock for the steering pushrod. Unit fits the Slow Stick fuse nicely, use a dab of Goop adhesive to lock in location on stick. Maybe you can find some other uses?
Trick parts for adding Ailerons to your slow stick. These horns are special and differ from the tail horns. Comes with servo mounting pads, stick these down with Foam Safe CA, GWS glue included with Slow Sticks or any other foam safe adhesive. Pad is made from 1/64th aircraft ply so it is flexible and will match contour of wing easily. Glue servo (CA or Goop) to pad. (servos glued directly to the foam can be torn off easily). Spacers are provided so you can adjust horn to fit 4 or 5mm thick wings. Enough parts to do both ailerons on one wing.
The aileron is cut out from the stock GWS molding on the back of the wing. Here is how I did it.
Instructions: 1.Press hobby pins through the color side at the corners of the aileron hinge line depression molded into the wing. Glue a balsa block to the side of your hobby knife so only about 1/8" of the blade sticks past the block. This block becomes a stop for the next step to stop you from cutting too deeply. Flip the wing over and put a steel straight edge against the pins (we are now working from the white or bottom side of the wing). Use your altered hobby knife to slice the foam from pin to pin in a straight line without piercing through the top surface or colored skin of the wing. 2. Line up a steel straight edge on the top surface of the wing and cut the cordwise lines (those going for and aft) at the ends of the aileron. Once cut, Move your rule over about 1/32" and take an extra sliver out. This way the edges of the aileron won't touch and bind as it moves back and forth.
3: Aileron is now free. Flex the aileron towards the colored side and the foam will crack up (from the bottom) to colored skin.
4: Hold the aileron so it's vertical or 90 to the top surface and use a sanding bar to sand the hinge line down flat so that both the wing and the aileron end up with a 45 degree bevel in the hinge line. BUT WAIT! When you sand, do so carefully, as you see the color (of the top surface skin) begining to peek through the foam, stop sanding. You don't want to cut this skin. The top skin becomes a living hinge. I added Blenderm tape to the bottom of my hinge line while it was flexed up to make sure I had a durable hinge.
Step 5 Warning! Your making each wing a mirror image of of the other, look carefully so both servos are placed opposite each other, pads are betweed same ribs and offset to similarly relative to the center of the wing.
5: Glue servo pad to wing. GWS foam glue or any other foam safe CA may be used. After the pads are cured, glue your servos to the servo pad. Cut the slot in the aileron so the holes in the horn are lined up over the hinge line you just cut in. Use the spacers (one long one aginst the foam) so the when the clip is installed the horn is snug. Remove, add glue and put back together. Make pushrod from .055 wire (same stuff used for slow stick pushrods) and your done.
Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want re-glue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
Same great performance as our twin EDF-64 mounts but all in one boom mounted unit "Wart Hog" Style. Photo shown teasingly on my very own Hog Stick to tickle your imagination. Fans slip into mounting hoops with slight press fit. Apply section of scotch tape on fan housing between hoops so housing cannot slip past hoop. Simple and effective. Down thrust is fully adjustable with this mount.
Each kit comes with high quality fasteners.
Motor and ESC combo option has been removed due to inavailability.
We formerly recommended: Combo A-Brushed = 2 each EDF-64H Fans complete, GWS 600LI ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails. This set will provide good performance for a low cost twin fan system. Model should finish about 24oz, about 14oz static thrust combined, not a bad ratio for low and slow tank pounding fly-by's!
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1500-2100 size pack is required. Deans or Anderson Power Poles are suggested between ESC(s) and battery. Solder to one input plug.
Slow Stick Biplane made easy! Lots of us have wanted to try this but few have taken time to make all the special parts required. Now you don't have to make anything. Let's be clear, you only "thought" you had a "Slow Stick", you'll really have a "Slow" stick after doing this conversion. If you like backing up on a breezy day, you'll be moon-walking with 2/3 the breeze once you've doubled the wing area. A Biplane conversion also looks much bigger. What an imposing presence your new Bipe will have among the lesser endowed Slow Sticks at the next Fly-In you attend.
Like our mono-wing mounts above, you must choose the wing perches you want to match your desired wing dihedral. Our shop model uses 24 degree perches (as shown in the photo) and to me it feels just perfect. More dihedral gets you a more "active" roll function when you put in a rudder command. Conversion kit work just fine with stock dihedral (12 degrees) if you like but expect roll control to be soft. Choose the perch set that you think best matches the personality your going for in your new biplane.
Correct CG for this wing mount set is 5 3/8" back from leading edge of top wing. Note one strut set has an "F" etched in and this is the "Front" mount.
Many ideas are open for experiment and consideration. For instance many biplanes use a shorter bottom wing and at times the dihedral angle may differ slightly from top to bottom. Release your imagination and be creative.
The wing struts are an option listed on this page. Not required but aid in stiffening up your wing assembly and add a dash of "looks right" to your dog-fighter.
Wing riser spreaders (look like a letter H) are included with all the perch sets and are needed to complete the wing risers for all the mono-wing mounts. These parts are extra and discarded when you build the bipe setup.
There are no official instructions or diagrams. It only fits together one way. If the part fits, it goes there. Squeeze it all together fully, wick in thin CA from outside of square tube hole. The Y shaped perch sets (surface you mount the wing too) comes with little spreader pieces, looks like a fat letter I. These parts are for other wing mounts and discarded when building the Bipe setup. The front mount is the one that would mount the leading edges highest.
There are no other instructions than what is stated above, as it's way too simple for any more really. Read the above listing, it will give other info such as CG. Enjoy!
Photos of examples of Wing Mount Risers kit and Perch Dihedrals kit (sizes vary) for your reference.
.400 wide by 8 5/8" long section of double sided tape. Used to mount Slow Stick vertical stab to side of boom. Many other uses possible. Genuine factory replacement part.
The stock battery mount for the slow stick is a little finicky to use. We believe it was made originally for 350 NiCads. Our mount fixes several issues. First, it has plenty of surface area if you like to use mounting Velcro. It is slotted and includes Velcro tie straps. It will retain these tie straps when the battery is not in place so no worries about them getting lost. Second, there are multiple places to easily hook on rubber bands. Any way you like to mount your battery is accommodated well with this mount.
Our long length mount will hold most any pack around 2500 or less in capacity in the normal long or short profile. Any pack 4.5" long (114mm) or less fits nicely.
Mount stands off slightly from the fuse boom so it may be positioned to overlap our wing mounts, main gear mounts even the motor mount if you like a forward location better. We have used this mount to suspend the battery above the boom also. It could also be used for "side" mounting if you need to balance against a camera or other onboard device that is off center.