Based on modern Ultra Stick designs and inspired by classic "Stick" models of the past, the Slow Ultra Stick 1.2m offers unique "mild to wild" performance and capabilities - from slow flying to aggressive aerobatics in yards, at parks and beyond!
Introduction
Inspired by similar "Stick" models from the past and based on the more modern-day design of Ultra Stick models, the Slow Ultra Stick is a "slow flyer" that also offers a wide range of performance and capabilities to deliver a unique flying experience unlike any other model available today! Use a 2S battery for slow flying indoors in large gymnasiums and other suitable spaces, in many yards, at most parks and sports fields - and to perform basic aerobatics including loops, rolls, and inverted flight. Or use a 3S 1300-2200mAh battery to hover and perform even more aggressive aerobatics thanks to the stiff and fully-molded EPO tails and wing with a semi-symmetrical airfoil. You can even install a second aileron servo to take advantage of the added capabilities flaperons and spoilerons offer. The Slow Ultra Stick is simple yet extremely capable while also being incredibly easy to fly for low-time pilots looking for a perfect "Next Step" after a trainer model and for experienced pilots looking for a model that offers a no hassles "mild to wild" flight experience they can't get with any other model.
Overview
The E-flite® Slow Ultra Stick 1.2m is based on the more modern-day design of Ultra Stick models yet was inspired by classic "Stick" models from the past. In the early 2000s, slow-flying Stick models took the market by storm because they were affordable, simple, and easy to fly. But they often took many hours to assemble with glue and tape and required significant modifications to achieve more performance and capabilities. The Slow Ultra Stick combines the benefits of those Stick models with modern-day capabilities, features, and performance due to the fully-molded and composite-reinforced tails plus wing with semi-symmetrical airfoil and ailerons. It also features a 2S and 3S-compatible brushless power system, including an exclusive Spektrum Avian Smart ESC. Plus, it's equipped with an AR630 receiver to deliver real-time telemetry data along with AS3X and SAFE Select technologies. It's capable of slow and easy cruising, sport flying, and even aggressive aerobatics - all in the same flight - to offer a unique and truly "mild to wild" flying experience unlike any other model available today. This makes it possible to fly indoors in large gymnasiums and other similar spaces or outdoors in yards, parks, at sports fields, and beyond, making it a versatile addition to the hangar for a wide variety of pilots! Best of all, unlike similar Stick models in the past that were only available as kits or ARFs, the Slow Ultra Stick arrives mostly factory-assembled with the power system, servos, and receiver installed. All you need to do is finish some quick and easy final bolt-together assembly - without glue, tape, or special tools - and you'll be ready to fly in less time than it takes to charge a battery! And even though it's conveniently sized so it can be stored and transported without disassembly, the two-piece wing is quick and easy to install/remove with two thumbscrews for even easier storage and transport.
All Slow Ultra Stick 1.2m models (EFL0350) include an updated version fuselage joiner (as of November 2023) and updated version landing gear legs (as of July 2023)
Inspired by classic slow flyer "Stick" models with modern-day technologies, features, and performance for "mild to wild" capabilities
Uniquely capable and versatile so it can be flown in more places and smaller spaces from yards to parks and beyond
Specially tuned brushless motor compatible with 2S and 3S batteries without the need for modifications
Durable and stiff, fully-molded, composite-reinforced EPO stabs plus a two-piece wing with a semi-symmetrical airfoil
Features:
Inspired by classic slow flyer "Stick" models with modern-day technologies, features, and performance for "mild to wild" capabilities
Uniquely capable and versatile so it can be flown in more places and smaller spaces from yards to parks and beyond
Specially tuned brushless motor compatible with 2S and 3S batteries without the need for modifications
Popular and affordable 1300-2200mAh batteries deliver a wide range of performance and flight times
30-amp Spektrum(TM) Avian(TM) Smart Lite ESC provides real-time battery voltage, motor RPM, and other data via compatible receivers and transmitters
Optional-use motor reversing for special ground handling and other capabilities
Compatible with the Spektrum(TM) DXS transmitter included with many RTF trainer models Spektrum(TM) AR630 receiver with fly-by range telemetry and industry-leading DSMX® technology
Easier to fly with innovative and optional-use SAFE® Select flight envelope protection The unmatched stability and locked-in feel of exclusive AS3X® technology
Three factory-installed digital servos plus the option to add a second aileron servo to utilize flaperons/spoilerons
Durable and stiff fully-molded, composite-reinforced EPO stabs plus a two-piece wing with a semi-symmetrical airfoil
Fast and easy bolt-together assembly - no glue, tape, or rubber bands required
Landing gear slides into place for easy installation, removal, and replacement
Oversized tires for the ability to take off and land on a variety of surfaces
Slow Stick Canard made easy! This all-in-one unit will mount your horizontal stab and allow angle of attack adjustments to suit your special setups. Most canards should be set to between 3 and 5 degrees positive. Range of adjust ment is from 0 to 7 degrees positive. Elevator servo moves with the canard mounting surface so your elevator adjustment stays the same relative to your canard when you alter the angle of attack setting. Mount has built in nose gear block and nose gear steering servo mount. All holes are predrilled. Includes high quality socket head hardware needed to complete.
My personal Slow Stick Canard is a twin tractor. I have a 1000mm boom length and the CG is set at 1-1.25" in ffront of the main wing leading edge. I have never built one with a stock boom length (800mm) but I would start with the CG in the range of 0-.5" in front of the leading edge. The shorter the boom the further the CG comes back, the longer the further forward you would place it. I don't know where Bob Masterson's CG is set but I would thing it is similar to my 1000mm boom setup.
Maiden Flight Video of Bob Masterson's converted Canard Slow Stick. This model is full house with 10" extended boom length.
Slow Stick Biplane made easy! Lots of us have wanted to try this but few have taken time to make all the special parts required. Now you don't have to make anything. Let's be clear, you only "thought" you had a "Slow Stick", you'll really have a "Slow" stick after doing this conversion. If you like backing up on a breezy day, you'll be moon-walking with 2/3 the breeze once you've doubled the wing area. A Biplane conversion also looks much bigger. What an imposing presence your new Bipe will have among the lesser endowed Slow Sticks at the next Fly-In you attend.
Like our mono-wing mounts above, you must choose the wing perches you want to match your desired wing dihedral. Our shop model uses 24 degree perches (as shown in the photo) and to me it feels just perfect. More dihedral gets you a more "active" roll function when you put in a rudder command. Conversion kit work just fine with stock dihedral (12 degrees) if you like but expect roll control to be soft. Choose the perch set that you think best matches the personality your going for in your new biplane.
Correct CG for this wing mount set is 5 3/8" back from leading edge of top wing. Note one strut set has an "F" etched in and this is the "Front" mount.
Many ideas are open for experiment and consideration. For instance many biplanes use a shorter bottom wing and at times the dihedral angle may differ slightly from top to bottom. Release your imagination and be creative.
The wing struts are an option listed on this page. Not required but aid in stiffening up your wing assembly and add a dash of "looks right" to your dog-fighter.
Wing riser spreaders (look like a letter H) are included with all the perch sets and are needed to complete the wing risers for all the mono-wing mounts. These parts are extra and discarded when you build the bipe setup.
There are no official instructions or diagrams. It only fits together one way. If the part fits, it goes there. Squeeze it all together fully, wick in thin CA from outside of square tube hole. The Y shaped perch sets (surface you mount the wing too) comes with little spreader pieces, looks like a fat letter I. These parts are for other wing mounts and discarded when building the Bipe setup. The front mount is the one that would mount the leading edges highest.
There are no other instructions than what is stated above, as it's way too simple for any more really. Read the above listing, it will give other info such as CG. Enjoy!
Photos of examples of Wing Mount Risers kit and Perch Dihedrals kit (sizes vary) for your reference.
At last a easy way to mount your digital camera to your Slow Stick boom. Our Camera Mount is loaded with form & function. Platform is large enough to fit almost any hand held camera. 4.2" long, 3.95" wide. It is slotted for Velcro One-Wrap and has 5 rubber band pegs on each end. Plenty of room for adhesive backed Velcro also. Mount allows adjustment axially around the stick in over a 90 degree arc. By repositioning the mount on the different facets of the boom any position around its 360 degrees may be set.
Another nice feature is the camera platform does not have to be glued to the supports. If used in this way, rubber bands are required (you'll probably use some to secure most any camera anyway) to lock the mount plate in its supports. This way you can remove the camera without undoing it from the mount platform plate. You may want to remove the camera to lighten your ship up for play or maybe you wish to change to an alternate camera for a special shot. Extra mounting plates are available for this purpose.
Want to get the sunset shot of the city (or mountains) with the wingtip in photo? This mount will make it possible. Aerial Photography "high-eye-in-the-sky" fun can provide endless entertainment and has some potential for profit. The Slow Stick must be the most popular camera platform ever. Easily carries the extra weight of a camera and is great for limited access takeoff and landing areas.
Note, you have to devise your own mechanical or electronic trigger to snap the photo. Velcro One-Wrap and top quality hardware included.
Configure your Slow Stick any way that suits you. Tricycle gear setups may prove desirable to provide the best protection for your camera. Parts to accomplish this are available in this category.
Schools and Universities: Science & Engineering classes interested in hands-on projects can consider a class project to obtain a student produced aerial photo as a combined lesson in engineering and project management. The school, local public works projects or even locally topical subject could be considered as the "Mission". Perhaps an infrared camera is available that could be used to photograph a neighborhood or school facilities on a cold winter day. The ensuing analysis of heat losses present endless opportunities for ongoing student projects and direction. The mission could be to study water runoff and retention during the high precipitation season. The number of fresh, new and exiting project ideas is without end. Combining science/engineering and construction of a UAV project with a real tangible result is certain to keep your students interested and engaged. An enlarged photo to display or publish your success can serve well to motivate the next group of students. Let us know if we can assist your curriculum in any way.
The GWS Slow Stick is a fun model right out of the box in stock configuration. Adding an adjustable thrust line motor stick allows you to trim in down and right thrust to suit. Imagine going from cruise to wide open throttle and the model does not automatically go into a loop! Makes the aircraft much smoother and more trim neutral whether flying around or doing wacked out 3 channel aerobatics. Comes in an easy build laser cut kit. All fasteners and washers included. Good SAE socket head fasteners. Simply build the kit, remove your motor mount from the GWS motor stick, slide our mount on, bolt to fuse, put your motor mount on the adjustable stick and run the bolt through. Now do some trial flights and adjust to taste. Allows for thrust lines from 0-8 degrees down and 0-3 degrees right. Useful for Millennium RC SSX and SS Trainer kits or for Sticks turned into Canards as it works just perfect in pusher configuration. Fantastic addition to any Slow Stick being used as teaching aids as the thrust line may be adjusted to demonstrate effects.
At last, an easy and low cost high performance Slow Stick Twin. Gone are the days of strapping a heavy boom to the bottom of the wing with the resulting up thrust and poor handling. You can have a twin and have it fly correctly! With the Radical RC twin conversion kit you can make any Slow Stick into a twin. You can even make it into a 4 engine WWI Faux Bomber if you wish (with 2 kits). Our kit does not alter your wing in any way, attaches with simple rubber bands so you can always alter or return to a prior configuration if you like. Optionally; cut the tail off this mount and glue them into your wing for a permanent band free installation if desired.
Each kit comes with 2 mounts and high quality socket head fasteners.
For those wanting to configure a forward looking still or movie camera setup without prop interference, you've just gained an excellent option.
Check drop downs for motor and ESC combo specials to go with this item.
Combo A-Brushed = 2 each 370-B gearbox's and motors, GWS 480 ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails & 1 set of GWS 8-4 x3 Blade Counter Rotating props. This set will provide excellent performance with straight up climb yet speed controlled just right for the Slow Stick. Wide open throttle time should be limited to 30 seconds, current will be about 10 amps per motor at WOT, max continuous is 8 amps. Who would have ever thought you could setup a high performance twin so inexpensively! Don't assume brushed setups can't be high perfromance, this system will really rock! The Price is OUTSTANDING!!
COMBO-B-Brushless = 2 each GWS 002 Outrunner, 2 GWS 28mm outrunner mounts, 2 Brushless ESC's, 2 sets 3.5mm bullets & 1 set of GWS 8-4 x3 Blade Counter Rotating props. Although bullet-like connectors come with the GWS motor, anybody with an ounce of sense changes them to real gold bullets. This setup performs nearly identical to the brushed above for a few amps lower draw.
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1000-2100 size pack is required. For Brushed setup, be sure to use Deans or Anderson Power Poles between ESC and battery. For brushless twin with single pack, solder both ESC's to one input plug.
Ever want to try a Slow Stick ducted fan conversion? Here it is. Uses off the shelf GWS EDF 64mm fans brushed or converted to brushless if you like. Now, don't tell us that Eindeckers never had jet power plants, we recently obtained archived 13th generation photo copies that seemed to show plans for just such a craft. Who's to say if they ever completed it or not? We built our model with the EDF-64H GWS brushed fans and let me tell you, this model really performs. I first flew it in about 12mph winds and with the throttle stick a little below 1/2 I was hanging it in the wind about 20' over my head and it was still creeping higher! Throttle range is excellent, plenty of power to blast out of trouble and reasonable speed for a slow stick. Now, this is not intended to be a fast fan model but then those are available around every corner. This setup will climb with authority (45 degrees or better), has good flight time, is aerobatic and certainly will turn heads at the local flying field. Before they see it fly, they'll be saying "How can that possibly work?", after flying they'll be asking "Where can I get those parts! It's amazing!"
Each kit comes with 2 mounts and high quality fasteners.
Motor and ESC combo drop down options have been removed due to inavailability. Our previous recommendations:
Combo A-Brushed = 2 each EDF-64H Fans complete, GWS 600LI ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails. This set will provide good performance for a low cost twin fan system. Model should finish about 24oz, you'll have about 14oz static thrust combined, not a bad ratio for WW1 low and slow jet fly-by's!
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1500-2100 size pack is required. Deans or Anderson Power Poles are suggested between ESC(s) and battery. Solder to one input plug.
Trick parts for adding Ailerons to your slow stick. These horns are special and differ from the tail horns. Comes with servo mounting pads, stick these down with Foam Safe CA, GWS glue included with Slow Sticks or any other foam safe adhesive. Pad is made from 1/64th aircraft ply so it is flexible and will match contour of wing easily. Glue servo (CA or Goop) to pad. (servos glued directly to the foam can be torn off easily). Spacers are provided so you can adjust horn to fit 4 or 5mm thick wings. Enough parts to do both ailerons on one wing.
The aileron is cut out from the stock GWS molding on the back of the wing. Here is how I did it.
Instructions: 1.Press hobby pins through the color side at the corners of the aileron hinge line depression molded into the wing. Glue a balsa block to the side of your hobby knife so only about 1/8" of the blade sticks past the block. This block becomes a stop for the next step to stop you from cutting too deeply. Flip the wing over and put a steel straight edge against the pins (we are now working from the white or bottom side of the wing). Use your altered hobby knife to slice the foam from pin to pin in a straight line without piercing through the top surface or colored skin of the wing. 2. Line up a steel straight edge on the top surface of the wing and cut the cordwise lines (those going for and aft) at the ends of the aileron. Once cut, Move your rule over about 1/32" and take an extra sliver out. This way the edges of the aileron won't touch and bind as it moves back and forth.
3: Aileron is now free. Flex the aileron towards the colored side and the foam will crack up (from the bottom) to colored skin.
4: Hold the aileron so it's vertical or 90 to the top surface and use a sanding bar to sand the hinge line down flat so that both the wing and the aileron end up with a 45 degree bevel in the hinge line. BUT WAIT! When you sand, do so carefully, as you see the color (of the top surface skin) begining to peek through the foam, stop sanding. You don't want to cut this skin. The top skin becomes a living hinge. I added Blenderm tape to the bottom of my hinge line while it was flexed up to make sure I had a durable hinge.
Step 5 Warning! Your making each wing a mirror image of of the other, look carefully so both servos are placed opposite each other, pads are betweed same ribs and offset to similarly relative to the center of the wing.
5: Glue servo pad to wing. GWS foam glue or any other foam safe CA may be used. After the pads are cured, glue your servos to the servo pad. Cut the slot in the aileron so the holes in the horn are lined up over the hinge line you just cut in. Use the spacers (one long one aginst the foam) so the when the clip is installed the horn is snug. Remove, add glue and put back together. Make pushrod from .055 wire (same stuff used for slow stick pushrods) and your done.
Did you ever get to see a Wright Flyer fly? Did you ever dream that someday you'd get to wiggle the wings on a Wright machine? I'm betting during all those many months of testing, planning, designing our famous Wrights went to bed wondering what it would be like. Then they did it. Now, you can do it. This conversion kit combined with the parts from two GWS Slow Stick slope glider kits (no longer available, discontinued by GWS) will produce a sport scale 1905 Wright Flyer. This model from the side view is scale having all the struts the original had. Omitted are all the flying wires and control cables. All the fiddly bits included on a perfect scale model (that break every time you land one) are gone. My intention was to design a model you could fly 10 times in a day if you liked and not once or twice a year for special occasions as you'd probably choose to do with a pure scale model.
Photo by SkyPielet
How does it work? If you look close you can see our unobtrusive elevator servo (we used a GWS Pico) on the canard support strut. This servo drives the top canard which in turn, drives the bottom canard through a simple transfer rod. The canards move up and down together on thier own individual pivots like the original 1905 flyer. The rudder servo is adhered to the bottom of the bottom wing with a Dubro Micro Push rod (1/32 wire in clear plastic tube) driving the rudder. The rudder moves like the original 1905, both together. Perhaps the most exciting feature is this model flys with real wing warping. The outside wing strut assembly has a servo hidden under the bottom wing driving a diagonal rod that appears to be a simple bracing rod in the scale location. Forget the Eindecker like wings, wouldn't it be gross if this model didn't turn by real wing warping? You're going to love this feature every time you show how it works.
How does it fly? I was amazed, after some initial hiccups working out the right setup. We've refined CG and throws until it flies more or less like you'd expect a trainer to fly. It is a bit draggy so you tend to fly with a middle throttle position most of the time and you will want to be comfortable flying with both hands as this design likes rudder inputs. However, you'll soon agree it flies like a trainer. Provided in the kit is the CG you need along with servo horn lengths, control throws and even exactly where to trim the canard for that first flight.
How does it build? This is not a normal kit, it's mostly nut and bolting with some foam trimming and fitting here and there a little gluing and some finishing (staining). If like me, your favorite ever childhood toy was an Erector set, you're about to feel young again! Now I know you hated those square nuts and slot head screws (I did) so we included all hex wrench driven button heads and ny-lock nuts. There is a surprising amount of aircraft ply in this kit. The main structure starts out as a 24"x24" section of 1/8" thick air ply (cuts slower on a laser) and it's packed tightly with many parts. Needless to say, there is a lot of laser cutting time here. It has the longest hardware list of any kit we've ever designed and the longest instruction set I've ever written including several drawings/templates. Ron, who built both of our in-house prototype models said he needs 3 work days to complete one. So, please plan enough time, it's very important to us that you actually finish it and get it flying. I want to hear the joy in your voice and see the pride on your face when you tell me about it at the next show.
Whats included? All the hardware needed that isn't already in the Slow Stick kits is included here. All fasteners are good quality allen head bolts with lock nuts. There are 88 washers and you can guess how many nuts and bolts.
What do you need to complete? Add 2 motors (max 2oz, 800-1200 KV), 2 stick type motor mounts, 2 ESC's, APC counter rotating prop set, electronics (2 each 6 gram servos, 2 each 20oz torque servos (we used HB-65's), and 1 each 3S battery 1800-2200mah. Extensions and Y's. For motors under 1000 kv, use 10-4.7 props, 1000-1200 kv use 10-3.8 props.
Building a custom Slow Stick from scratch? Wish to eliminate the weight of the factory joiner and it's fasteners? Want an even stronger Slow Stick? Here is your boom. 800mm long. 10x10mm. Exact same fit as GWS tube so all your factory parts and Radical RC upgrades will fit perfectly. I strongly prefer building our custom Slow Sticks from parts starting with 1 piece booms. The GWS 2 piece boom works perfect but I like the simpler lower parts count of one solid tube and you will also.
International buyers: (Outside USA) These booms exceed the allowable length for First class shipments. Your minimum shipping fee will be at least $20 because they must go International Priority Mail due to length. In a recent example a customer from Canada ordered 1.7lbs of goods. The First Class cost was $7, however because the boom length forces Priority Mail the cost becomes $21. The same example to UK the price goes from $15-$30.
Tricycle gear made easy for your GWS Slow Stick. After seeing a friend's setup which was overly flexible needing constant adjustment, I designed this handy nose gear block for him. The GWS landing gear wire is 1 size too small. Our Nose Gear Block is made to take 3/32 or .094 wire (Part # KS506). This kit is the nose gear block only, no wire or other hardware included. Just squeeze together and wick in thin CA. You're done. It's made so a single Dubro 3/32 wheel collar (Part # DUB138) retains the wire in the block. Remove the set screw and replace with a long 4-40 bolt. Notice how we did this using a short section of glow tubing as a friction lock for the steering pushrod. Unit fits the Slow Stick fuse nicely, use a dab of Goop adhesive to lock in location on stick. Maybe you can find some other uses? SKU Number: RRCSSNGB
Tired of your Slow Stick tail bending, flapping in the wind at your higher than normal speed? Wishing for more rigid control? Here is your ultimate tail upgrade!! This tail will not flutter and is many times more rugged than the stock tail. If your worried about tail loads lifting heavy weights, flying fast or just plain love the idea of Slow Sticks but hate foam, welcome to heaven.
A fully self jigging stick built tail. You can press this together and shake it up in the air hard as you like, nothing is falling apart. I'm tempted to cover one without glue for experimental (show off ;-) purposes. However, I do recommend you glue it together. Simply piece the jigsaw together, hold to flat surface and wick thin CA into all the joints, bevel the elevator and rudder 45 degrees for tape hinges (or 90 degree points for CA hinges), round out the edges, surface sand, cover, mount, hook up control rods and fly.
Kit comes as complete package with our custom upgrade horn set and vertical stab mount system. ($6 upgrades value) and instructional drawing. Parts are exact stock shape (except no hard to cover scallops) and hinge lines. Laser cut from 3/16 balsa right here in the good ol' USA. Mounting holes and control horn holes are all pre-made. Your tail will go on straight and true. Additionally, the stab mount has provisions for moving the stab forward from stock location in order to give you more elevator throw if your building an aerobatic monster. Fully compatible with Stevens Aero or Millennium upgrade kits.
Don't forget to get some transparent covering for this kit, she is a real beauty when complete.
Finally it's easy to convert to a T tail. Complete with washer plates. Glue to your stab and horizontal or use 4-40 nylon bolt/nuts in the pre drilled holes. May also be used for mounting verticals to the ends of your stab. Works with any 4mm foam. If using with stock Slow Stick parts, trim the top of the vertical down until you have a flat spot long enough for this mount. Comes complete with washer plates to prevent bolt damage to surfaces.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering. One photo shows used as base for vertical fin which we mounted to center of wing for our twin tractor canard model in the shop.
Finally it's easy to convert to a T tail. Complete with washer plates. Glue to your stab and horizontal or use 4-40 nylon bolt/nuts in the pre drilled holes. May also be used for mounting verticals to the ends of your stab. Works with any 5mm foam. If using with stock Slow Stick parts, trim the top of the vertical down until you have a flat spot long enough for this mount. Comes complete with washer plates to prevent bolt damage to surfaces.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering. One images shows part being used to mount a fin to the center of the wing on our Twin Tractor Canard model in the shop.
Tan rubber bands stick out sorely on a red Slow Stick wing. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick, plain packaging.
Wrong color rubber bands stick out sorely on Slow Stick wings. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick, plain packaging.
Wrong color rubber bands stick out sorely on Slow Stick wings. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick, plain packaging.
Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want reglue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
Instructions: (Applies to both 4mm and 5mm unit)
The Stab kit has only 3 working parts. A bottom and 2 sides. The other two parts are alignment jigs.
1. Gently press the two sides onto the bottom (the bottom is the thick part with the two holes in it, the part you see best in the photo above is a side.) You'll notice there are matching finger joints between the parts. Finger joints are notches that fit together tightly. Get the 3 parts roughly square and uniform forming a U channel.
2. The other two parts that look like retangles with a "U" cut out in them are alignment jigs. You press these over the ends, wiggle them on carefully, one from each end until each is about 1/2" or so in from the end. The jig holds the 2 sides in perfect alignment with the bottom. Wick some thin CA into the finger joints between the the bottom section and each of it's two sides. Be careful not to glue your alignment jigs to the Stab Mount.
3. Pull the alignment jigs off and discard.
4. Slip your vertical into the stab mount. If it's a little bit loose (the foam they use has some varience in thickness) just add a layer or two of masking tape to the stab unti it's thick enough to be lightly snug.
5. Place the stab and it's mount onto your boom and notice how the bolts that hold the horizontal stab on will thread into the base plate of the stab mount. Notice additionally that your rudder is higher so you can get more elevator throw without contacting the rudder if you wish. Also, you locate the stab a little further forward in the mount to get even more elevator travel opened up if you want.
6. After finding the right location to glue your stab into the mount, Use Foam Safe CA or better yet the included GWS slow dry foam safe tube of glue to glue the stab into the slot.
7. Once the glue is dry, remove the nuts from your stab bolts. Now hold the stab in place as vertical as possible as your turn the screws from beneath the horizontal stab. Once everything is snugged up, reconnect your pushrod linkage and you've got a rock solid stab that's not going to come off and plenty of extra travel for your elevator.
Tired fussing with the tiny rubber band pegs on the stock GWS mount? Wishing you had more or less dihedral? Want to raise the wing up and make a true high wing out of it? Maybe you need to raise the wing and make room for your camera? How about a Low Wing Slow Stick? You've found the parts!
Generally, as you add dihedral and/or raise the wing up you get more yaw induced roll. This is to say your rudder will be more effective. The stock dihedral is 12 degrees. Maybe you're looking for a flatter wing layout to help make ailerons more effective? Also, if you have ailerons, you wish for the yaw to be more pure yaw and less roll. All these parts are here to aid in your experiments.
Incidentally, you'll have to bend your wing tubes for these higher dihedrals. This isn't too difficult if you have reasonable hand strength, insert carbon rods to aid and pull around a corner like the side corner of a pine 2x4.
Select Wing Mount Riser Lift first: -1 is the low wing set moving wing below the stick; 0 is near or like stock; actually my 0 starts just a fraction higher than factory mount; 1"; 2"; and 3" (refers to "inches" higher than the my 0 mount).
Next, select the Perch Dihedral...Note, 24 degrees recommended for low wing risers: 0 degrees (flat); 5 (less than stock); 12 (stock); 16; 20; 24; or 55 for a whacked out 3 channel rolling monster.
Our heavy duty Slow Stick mounting tab. Made from 2.5mm Aircraft Ply. Rugged, can be used to mount anything a stick can carry. Big enough to hold Dubro's 1/2A nose gear set if you like. Each kit is one tab, super quick to build and nice fit on your fuse boom. SKU Number: RRCSSMTHD
Ever want to setup your bird as a pusher? Maybe you have a front mounted camera system and wish to remove the prop from your videos and photos. Mount is adjustable for down thrust over a nice range making an otherwise tedious trim adjustment easy. This mount was designed to be used as the wing mount also. If you wish to use only the motor mount without wing mount, that works well also. In a recent project (and I expect most people will) we used it as the wing mount system as well. It gives you 1" of wing rise which is popular already. Choose only your dihedral angle perches below. Good quality socket head fasteners are included.
Designed for use with props up to 10" using normal motor mounts. Mounts that put the shaft of the motor close to the stick like the 10mm Tower Pro Motor Mounts and the 20mm motor/stick mount setups tend to move the motor closer limiting the prop diameter to 9". If the entire motor body is above the motor stick a 10" prop will fit.
Special Note: It has been observed that this mount may be used as a forward facing (tractor) motor mount also. For under-boom mounted forward facing camera work, it is often desirable to raise the motor up to get the prop arc out of the photograph. This mount facing forward on the nose accomplishes just that while still allowing you to adjust for proper down thrust angle.
Use this stick in conjunction with our other motor mount systems to alter the up/down thrust adjustment by 4 degrees. We made these stick because we built a twin tractor canard Slow Stick and in this configuration, you actually need a small amount of "UP" thrust to acheive good cruise to glide elevator trim settings. Our stock twin tractor motor mount adjusts from zero to -8 degrees (as most of our motor mounting systems do). This part changes the range of existing motor mount systems to "+4 to -4" or "-4 to -12" degree thrust line. Each Item is 2 motor sticks. SKU Number: RRCSSMMSTKPLUS4
I wanted a sport fan that would ROG on a decent surface and "sport" fly very well too. There are lots of cool fan models that require bungee launch or a pro pitcher to get them airborne. Also, most ducted fan models only do one thing well, "go fast". The Mini Hunter is something different. With the stock GWS EDF 40's she'll get off pavement in about 12 feet. So, on your club runway that's 400 feet+ long to accommodate turbines, you'll have no trouble taking off across the width of it. In fact, landing or taking off between 2nd base and the pitchers mound will be a breeze at the local ball park. When you get her airborne you'll find you have a very well behaved sport airplane with sharp looks and good aerobatic ability. If you can fly any of our "Stick" models, the Mini Hunter will be a snap for you. Landings are surprisingly slow. Flight times are good with the fans too. The fans are positioned to allow part of the airflow to go over the wing. This nets us a model that can still be fast if you want yet can slow down to make very slow fairly high alpha landings without worry of the tail surfaces or the ailerons quitting on you. You see, like a prop driven model, the control surfaces of this model are in the fan thrust airflow. Kit includes steerable nose gear and my special "Monkey Motion Un-mixer" to un-mix V tail off the tail servos to drive your nose gear steering pushrod. The kit's worth the price just to see how this monkey motion unmixer works! ;-) This is a true "V" tail design. We use magnetic push button wing release so battery change out is a breeze.
The Mini Hunter may also be powered with direct drive props if you like. Any two 12mm motors will fly it. For brushed use Twin 50XC motors. Remember, this model will get off in 12 feet, climb at 45 degrees or better, and is plenty quick with the brushed fans. You do not need brushless to have a cool model here, but we've got it to serve up to those wanting to build a monster.
Newest Power System? Another cool setup is twin 12mm 50XC 4.8V motors wired in series on 2 or 3S.
Specifications: Finished weight 7.75-9 oz. Wing span 23". Wing area 132in. sq. Length 19.5"
Build as 3 or 4 channels, requires 4 each .2oz or less servos, small RX like Berg Microstamp 4L RX, Castle Pixie 7 or GWS ICS300 for 40mm fans (yes one esc drives both motors for brushed). Twin Castle TBird 9's for twin brushless fans on 3-3 props. Use a high discharge pack, weight budget for the battery will accommodate 2S 640 to 3S 1000.
International shipping note: box size is 24 inches long and approximately 16oz. weight.
Mounts two servos easily. Tired of the GWS mount splitting and pulling the grommets out of your servos every time you stop abruptly (crash)? A slow and tedious repair when you should be flying. Our mount is tied together to prevent this problem. Also allows mounting of servo set low or high relative to the boom.
Although you can use this mount to put the servos anywhere along the boom, we've found a great enhancement putting the servos right back at the tail and using the stock music wire for short pushrod wires. You'll get rid of pushrod wire weight but the real advantage is your eliminate tons of pushrod flex, your controls will tighten up and you'll find she handles a little more solid in a breeze.
Kit allows use of different size servos. I like 6 gram servos like Pico's and HS-55's on my sticks. You might think moving the servos back would cause your stick to become tail heavy but remember your eliminating pushrod weight and what your moving back wasn't up front, it was already somewhat to the rear already. We find it works out just fine and the model is still easily balanced.
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 "Slow Stick Adjustable Camera Mount")
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 "Slow Stick Twin Prop Adjustable Motor Mount Kit")
 "Slow Stick Twin Adjustable FAN Mount Kit")
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 "Slow Stick 5mm T Tail Mount")
 "Red Slow Stick Rubber Bands, 1/4 LB")
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 "Blue Slow Stick Rubber Bands, 1/4 LB")
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