Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want re-glue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
Same great performance as our twin EDF-64 mounts but all in one boom mounted unit "Wart Hog" Style. Photo shown teasingly on my very own Hog Stick to tickle your imagination. Fans slip into mounting hoops with slight press fit. Apply section of scotch tape on fan housing between hoops so housing cannot slip past hoop. Simple and effective. Down thrust is fully adjustable with this mount.
Each kit comes with high quality fasteners.
Motor and ESC combo option has been removed due to inavailability.
We formerly recommended: Combo A-Brushed = 2 each EDF-64H Fans complete, GWS 600LI ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails. This set will provide good performance for a low cost twin fan system. Model should finish about 24oz, about 14oz static thrust combined, not a bad ratio for low and slow tank pounding fly-by's!
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1500-2100 size pack is required. Deans or Anderson Power Poles are suggested between ESC(s) and battery. Solder to one input plug.
Slow Stick Biplane made easy! Lots of us have wanted to try this but few have taken time to make all the special parts required. Now you don't have to make anything. Let's be clear, you only "thought" you had a "Slow Stick", you'll really have a "Slow" stick after doing this conversion. If you like backing up on a breezy day, you'll be moon-walking with 2/3 the breeze once you've doubled the wing area. A Biplane conversion also looks much bigger. What an imposing presence your new Bipe will have among the lesser endowed Slow Sticks at the next Fly-In you attend.
Like our mono-wing mounts above, you must choose the wing perches you want to match your desired wing dihedral. Our shop model uses 24 degree perches (as shown in the photo) and to me it feels just perfect. More dihedral gets you a more "active" roll function when you put in a rudder command. Conversion kit work just fine with stock dihedral (12 degrees) if you like but expect roll control to be soft. Choose the perch set that you think best matches the personality your going for in your new biplane.
Correct CG for this wing mount set is 5 3/8" back from leading edge of top wing. Note one strut set has an "F" etched in and this is the "Front" mount.
Many ideas are open for experiment and consideration. For instance many biplanes use a shorter bottom wing and at times the dihedral angle may differ slightly from top to bottom. Release your imagination and be creative.
The wing struts are an option listed on this page. Not required but aid in stiffening up your wing assembly and add a dash of "looks right" to your dog-fighter.
Wing riser spreaders (look like a letter H) are included with all the perch sets and are needed to complete the wing risers for all the mono-wing mounts. These parts are extra and discarded when you build the bipe setup.
There are no official instructions or diagrams. It only fits together one way. If the part fits, it goes there. Squeeze it all together fully, wick in thin CA from outside of square tube hole. The Y shaped perch sets (surface you mount the wing too) comes with little spreader pieces, looks like a fat letter I. These parts are for other wing mounts and discarded when building the Bipe setup. The front mount is the one that would mount the leading edges highest.
There are no other instructions than what is stated above, as it's way too simple for any more really. Read the above listing, it will give other info such as CG. Enjoy!
Photos of examples of Wing Mount Risers kit and Perch Dihedrals kit (sizes vary) for your reference.
.400 wide by 8 5/8" long section of double sided tape. Used to mount Slow Stick vertical stab to side of boom. Many other uses possible. Genuine factory replacement part.
The stock battery mount for the slow stick is a little finicky to use. We believe it was made originally for 350 NiCads. Our mount fixes several issues. First, it has plenty of surface area if you like to use mounting Velcro. It is slotted and includes Velcro tie straps. It will retain these tie straps when the battery is not in place so no worries about them getting lost. Second, there are multiple places to easily hook on rubber bands. Any way you like to mount your battery is accommodated well with this mount.
Our long length mount will hold most any pack around 2500 or less in capacity in the normal long or short profile. Any pack 4.5" long (114mm) or less fits nicely.
Mount stands off slightly from the fuse boom so it may be positioned to overlap our wing mounts, main gear mounts even the motor mount if you like a forward location better. We have used this mount to suspend the battery above the boom also. It could also be used for "side" mounting if you need to balance against a camera or other onboard device that is off center.
120 degree V-Tail Mounting Kit. Precision, laser cut quick build kit. She'll fly like an Angle but won't look like everybody else's hound after making this mod. The V tail is made from just one stock Horizontal stabilizer cut in 1/2. A slight V notch needs to be crafted in the elevator portion as shown in the photo. Comes with nice light weight nylon hardware. You'll need a radio with "Elevon" mixing (or open mixes available) to get both controls on the right stick (mode 2 for us Yankees). If your radio lacks this feature it is available on our site as a carry onboard electronic device.
Of course, you'll want a real tail wheel mount or go tricycle gear like I did. These parts go nicely with the V tail mount and are available in this category.
Tired of your Slow Stick tail bending, flapping in the wind at your higher than normal speed? Wishing for more rigid control? Here is your ultimate tail upgrade!! This tail will not flutter and is many times more rugged than the stock tail. If your worried about tail loads lifting heavy weights, flying fast or just plain love the idea of Slow Sticks but hate foam, welcome to heaven.
A fully self jigging stick built tail. You can press this together and shake it up in the air hard as you like, nothing is falling apart. I'm tempted to cover one without glue for experimental (show off ;-) purposes. However, I do recommend you glue it together. Simply piece the jigsaw together, hold to flat surface and wick thin CA into all the joints, bevel the elevator and rudder 45 degrees for tape hinges (or 90 degree points for CA hinges), round out the edges, surface sand, cover, mount, hook up control rods and fly.
Kit comes as complete package with our custom upgrade horn set and vertical stab mount system. ($6 upgrades value) and instructional drawing. Parts are exact stock shape (except no hard to cover scallops) and hinge lines. Laser cut from 3/16 balsa right here in the good ol' USA. Mounting holes and control horn holes are all pre-made. Your tail will go on straight and true. Additionally, the stab mount has provisions for moving the stab forward from stock location in order to give you more elevator throw if your building an aerobatic monster. Fully compatible with Stevens Aero or Millennium upgrade kits.
Don't forget to get some transparent covering for this kit, she is a real beauty when complete.
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, flux capacitors and etc.... Each package includes 4 tabs.
Finally it's easy to convert to a T tail. Complete with washer plates. Glue to your stab and horizontal or use 4-40 nylon bolt/nuts in the pre drilled holes. May also be used for mounting verticals to the ends of your stab. Works with any 5mm foam. If using with stock Slow Stick parts, trim the top of the vertical down until you have a flat spot long enough for this mount. Comes complete with washer plates to prevent bolt damage to surfaces.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering. One images shows part being used to mount a fin to the center of the wing on our Twin Tractor Canard model in the shop.
NEW! PARTIAL MISSING PART(S), WE DON'T KNOW WHAT IS MISSING. Slow Stick X - X-Trainer Repair Kits (WOOD ONLY) Includes laser-cut balsa and ply to build either SSX or X-Trainer Tail section. These repair kits are of the new design. Hardware and instructions which are included in "Short Kit" are not included in this repair kit. This item is the Tail Kit Only.
Tan rubber bands stick out sorely on a red Slow Stick wing. While these lighten a bit when stretched out they tend to visually fade into the model much better. 1/4 pound of the the correct size and color for your stick, plain packaging.
At last, an easy and low cost high performance Slow Stick Twin. Gone are the days of strapping a heavy boom to the bottom of the wing with the resulting up thrust and poor handling. You can have a twin and have it fly correctly! With the Radical RC twin conversion kit you can make any Slow Stick into a twin. You can even make it into a 4 engine WWI Faux Bomber if you wish (with 2 kits). Our kit does not alter your wing in any way, attaches with simple rubber bands so you can always alter or return to a prior configuration if you like. Optionally; cut the tail off this mount and glue them into your wing for a permanent band free installation if desired.
Each kit comes with 2 mounts and high quality socket head fasteners.
For those wanting to configure a forward looking still or movie camera setup without prop interference, you've just gained an excellent option.
Check drop downs for motor and ESC combo specials to go with this item.
Combo A-Brushed = 2 each 370-B gearbox's and motors, GWS 480 ESC, 2 JWT female pigtails & 1 set of GWS 8-4 x3 Blade Counter Rotating props. This set will provide excellent performance with straight up climb yet speed controlled just right for the Slow Stick. Wide open throttle time should be limited to 30 seconds, current will be about 10 amps per motor at WOT, max continuous is 8 amps. Who would have ever thought you could setup a high performance twin so inexpensively! Don't assume brushed setups can't be high perfromance, this system will really rock! The Price is OUTSTANDING!!
COMBO-B-Brushless = 2 each GWS 002 Outrunner, 2 GWS 28mm outrunner mounts, 2 Brushless ESC's, 2 sets 3.5mm bullets & 1 set of GWS 8-4 x3 Blade Counter Rotating props. Although bullet-like connectors come with the GWS motor, anybody with an ounce of sense changes them to real gold bullets. This setup performs nearly identical to the brushed above for a few amps lower draw.
All COMBO choices require soldering your harness together with parts provided. Your 3S generally 1000-2100 size pack is required. For Brushed setup, be sure to use Deans or Anderson Power Poles between ESC and battery. For brushless twin with single pack, solder both ESC's to one input plug.
This special part allows you to glue in place a stop. Great for setups you want to be able to dismantle quickly. We made this part for a Slow Stick in the shop that the owner setup to take down and fit back in the box after a flying session. He can glue use these stops to set the location of one of his wing mounts.
Another interesting use is as a spacer to set the distance between accessories. Also useful as a slip on bushing to glue your special projects to. Laser cut from 3/16 aircraft grade plywood. Rugged enough for most any use. Each package contains 4 stops.
Mounts two servos easily. Tired of the GWS mount splitting and pulling the grommets out of your servos every time you stop abruptly (crash)? A slow and tedious repair when you should be flying. Our mount is tied together to prevent this problem. Also allows mounting of servo set low or high relative to the boom.
Although you can use this mount to put the servos anywhere along the boom, we've found a great enhancement putting the servos right back at the tail and using the stock music wire for short pushrod wires. You'll get rid of pushrod wire weight but the real advantage is your eliminate tons of pushrod flex, your controls will tighten up and you'll find she handles a little more solid in a breeze.
Kit allows use of different size servos. I like 6 gram servos like Pico's and HS-55's on my sticks. You might think moving the servos back would cause your stick to become tail heavy but remember your eliminating pushrod weight and what your moving back wasn't up front, it was already somewhat to the rear already. We find it works out just fine and the model is still easily balanced.
Use to offset a second boom from your main boom. Imgaine a Schiender cup racer but rather than a float centered under the fuse, we're adding a second boom. Original intention is to locate a second boom below your main boom to hold landing gear, battery and camera mount for FPV experimenters. In this way (with other parts available separately) Can be used to configure Slow Stick for single tractor motor with camera position in front of prop if you like.
Other uses are possible, perhaps you want to put a boom up above your wing to hold motor or camera above prop. Use your imagination with this special kit.
On model in photo parts are colored black with permanent marker. Made from laser cut 3/32 Aircraft Plywood. This kit offsets second boom with 4 3/8" gap.
Use these tabs to mount your own special projects. Get a good fit the easy way! Made from 3/32" thick (2.5mm) aircraft grade plywood. Great for uses such as mounting cameras, drop box's, custom battery trays, ghost detectors and etc.... Each package includes 4 double mount tabs. Mount two accessories on your stick.
The GWS Slow Stick is a fun model right out of the box in stock configuration. Adding an adjustable thrust line motor stick allows you to trim in down and right thrust to suit. Imagine going from cruise to wide open throttle and the model does not automatically go into a loop! Makes the aircraft much smoother and more trim neutral whether flying around or doing wacked out 3 channel aerobatics. Comes in an easy build laser cut kit. All fasteners and washers included. Good SAE socket head fasteners. Simply build the kit, remove your motor mount from the GWS motor stick, slide our mount on, bolt to fuse, put your motor mount on the adjustable stick and run the bolt through. Now do some trial flights and adjust to taste. Allows for thrust lines from 0-8 degrees down and 0-3 degrees right. Useful for Millennium RC SSX and SS Trainer kits or for Sticks turned into Canards as it works just perfect in pusher configuration. Fantastic addition to any Slow Stick being used as teaching aids as the thrust line may be adjusted to demonstrate effects.
Aluminum tubes required to build a straight wing, no dihedral Slow Stick Wing set up. Easily Bent to your chosen Dihedral. Note the pre-bent GWS 12-degree tubes are discontinued. Good precision fit to factory 3mm spars and a little longer than factory part at 3" to reduce spar wobble inside of tube.
Tired of that out of kilter look you get from an off center tab? Maybe you just don't want reglue your stab from time to time as often happens. This little kit builds into a U channel perfect for your stab. Glue or cross pin your stab in. Pre-drilled holes in base are correct diameter to thread 4-40 socket head bolts. These can be the same bolts that hold your conventional horizontal stabilizer on. Also, a must if your converting to T tail. There is no stronger way to mount the vertical stabilizer.
Slow stick parts come in both 4 and 5 mm. 4mm is .157" or pretty close to 5/32". 5mm is a little over 3/16" at .197". Measure your parts before ordering.
Instructions: (Applies to both 4mm and 5mm unit)
The Stab kit has only 3 working parts. A bottom and 2 sides. The other two parts are alignment jigs.
1. Gently press the two sides onto the bottom (the bottom is the thick part with the two holes in it, the part you see best in the photo above is a side.) You'll notice there are matching finger joints between the parts. Finger joints are notches that fit together tightly. Get the 3 parts roughly square and uniform forming a U channel.
2. The other two parts that look like retangles with a "U" cut out in them are alignment jigs. You press these over the ends, wiggle them on carefully, one from each end until each is about 1/2" or so in from the end. The jig holds the 2 sides in perfect alignment with the bottom. Wick some thin CA into the finger joints between the the bottom section and each of it's two sides. Be careful not to glue your alignment jigs to the Stab Mount.
3. Pull the alignment jigs off and discard.
4. Slip your vertical into the stab mount. If it's a little bit loose (the foam they use has some varience in thickness) just add a layer or two of masking tape to the stab unti it's thick enough to be lightly snug.
5. Place the stab and it's mount onto your boom and notice how the bolts that hold the horizontal stab on will thread into the base plate of the stab mount. Notice additionally that your rudder is higher so you can get more elevator throw without contacting the rudder if you wish. Also, you locate the stab a little further forward in the mount to get even more elevator travel opened up if you want.
6. After finding the right location to glue your stab into the mount, Use Foam Safe CA or better yet the included GWS slow dry foam safe tube of glue to glue the stab into the slot.
7. Once the glue is dry, remove the nuts from your stab bolts. Now hold the stab in place as vertical as possible as your turn the screws from beneath the horizontal stab. Once everything is snugged up, reconnect your pushrod linkage and you've got a rock solid stab that's not going to come off and plenty of extra travel for your elevator.
Same notes as short and long trays except the Uber Long tray holds anything up to 9.25". Provides extra mounting surface for other goodies if you like. Long enough in many cases to provide alternate battery mounting locations if you alter the configuration of your ship from flight to flight. Weight: 18.2g/0.64oz. SKU Number: RRCSSBTUL
At last a easy way to mount your digital camera to your Slow Stick boom. Our Camera Mount is loaded with form & function. Platform is large enough to fit almost any hand held camera. 4.2" long, 3.95" wide. It is slotted for Velcro One-Wrap and has 5 rubber band pegs on each end. Plenty of room for adhesive backed Velcro also. Mount allows adjustment axially around the stick in over a 90 degree arc. By repositioning the mount on the different facets of the boom any position around its 360 degrees may be set.
Another nice feature is the camera platform does not have to be glued to the supports. If used in this way, rubber bands are required (you'll probably use some to secure most any camera anyway) to lock the mount plate in its supports. This way you can remove the camera without undoing it from the mount platform plate. You may want to remove the camera to lighten your ship up for play or maybe you wish to change to an alternate camera for a special shot. Extra mounting plates are available for this purpose.
Want to get the sunset shot of the city (or mountains) with the wingtip in photo? This mount will make it possible. Aerial Photography "high-eye-in-the-sky" fun can provide endless entertainment and has some potential for profit. The Slow Stick must be the most popular camera platform ever. Easily carries the extra weight of a camera and is great for limited access takeoff and landing areas.
Note, you have to devise your own mechanical or electronic trigger to snap the photo. Velcro One-Wrap and top quality hardware included.
Configure your Slow Stick any way that suits you. Tricycle gear setups may prove desirable to provide the best protection for your camera. Parts to accomplish this are available in this category.
Schools and Universities: Science & Engineering classes interested in hands-on projects can consider a class project to obtain a student produced aerial photo as a combined lesson in engineering and project management. The school, local public works projects or even locally topical subject could be considered as the "Mission". Perhaps an infrared camera is available that could be used to photograph a neighborhood or school facilities on a cold winter day. The ensuing analysis of heat losses present endless opportunities for ongoing student projects and direction. The mission could be to study water runoff and retention during the high precipitation season. The number of fresh, new and exiting project ideas is without end. Combining science/engineering and construction of a UAV project with a real tangible result is certain to keep your students interested and engaged. An enlarged photo to display or publish your success can serve well to motivate the next group of students. Let us know if we can assist your curriculum in any way.
Same adjustable thrust line motor mount with built in nose gear mounting block. 2 parts built into one with advantage of getting the nose gear further forward for more stability. Nose gear is bent to any length desired from 3/32 music wire which you provide. Wheel collars (DUB138 suggested) and wheel not included. I used a spare 1 1/4" long 4-40 socked head cap screw as a tiller arm replacing the setscrew that secures your bent gear wire into the pillow blocks. A section of fuel line to bind a push-rod to the tiller arm. All other fasteners included. See out standard nose gear block for another photo of this hardware setup.
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